What I remember most is what he did to the couple
   who sent his best pasta back to the kitchen,

pronouncing it “too thin.” Capers and kalamata
   olives tossed with squid-ink angelhair

—salty, he used to say, as sweat on a black man’s cock.
   He said this often, not only to shock:

food should be made with love, and love to him was sweat,
   saliva, tears. What do they want from me?

he muttered, adding an egg—more Parmesan—a cup
   of heavy cream—and tossed it all together,