The Daily

On Food

Hemingway’s Hamburger

September 16, 2013 | by

Ernest Hemingway Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.

Ernest Hemingway Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.

Fingers deep, I kneaded. Fighting the urge to be careless and quick, I kept the pace rhythmic, slow. Each squeeze, I hoped, would gently ease the flavors—knobby bits of garlic, finely chopped capers, smatterings of dry spices—into the marbled mound before me.

I had made burgers before, countless times on countless evenings. This one was different; I wasn’t making just any burger—I was attempting to recreate Hemingway’s hamburger. And it had to be just right.

My quest had begun in May when I read a newspaper story about two thousand newly digitized documents of Ernest Hemingway’s personal papers in Cuba finally wending their way to the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum in Boston. This was the second batch of Hemingway papers to arrive from his home in Cuba, where he lived from 1939 to 1960, and wrote numerous stories and the celebrated novels For Whom the Bell Tolls and The Old Man and the Sea.

In his Havana home—Finca Vigía, or “Lookout Farm,” a large house and sprawling tropical gardens filled with mango and almond trees—between tapping out books like A Moveable Feast (while standing up at his typewriter), he also enjoyed dining well and entertaining. The ubiquitous Hemingway Daiquiri, after all, comes from his time in Havana, when he wandered into the El Floridita bar, had his first taste of a daiquiri, then ordered another with no sugar—and double the rum. (So the story goes, anyway.)

Spencer Tracy and Ernest Hemingway with Friends at La Florida (“Floridita”), Havana, Cuba. Ernest Hemingway Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.

Spencer Tracy and Ernest Hemingway with Friends at La Florida (“Floridita”), Havana, Cuba. Ernest Hemingway Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.

As both a food writer and Hemingway acolyte, I had long been aware of his immense appetites—for life, adventure, drink, and a good meal. So it wasn’t surprising that one line in this article should strike me: “The more mundane, like his instructions to the household staff, including how to prepare his hamburgers: ground beef, onions, garlic, India relish, and capers, cooked so the edges were crispy but the center red and juicy.” Hemingway’s idea of a perfect hamburger? I had to try it.

While I may have found this fascinating, the interesting thing about the latest set of Hemingway’s Cuba papers is how conventionally uninteresting they are.. “The first batch of papers (donated to the J.F.K. Library in 2009) were what folks may have considered more scholarly—galley proofs of his books, correspondence with his editors, that sort of work,” said Mary-Jo Adams, executive director of the Boston-based Finca Vigía Foundation, the non-profit that has been working with Museum Hemingway at Finca Vigía to preserve his documents and bring copies of them up to the United States. “This group is more personal—it’s less significant, depending on your perspective … copies of his passports, bills that he paid, automobile insurance, his good driver discount—things that put together the fabric of who the man was past his writing.”

 Ernest Hemingway Feeding Cristobal a Corn Cob at Finca Vigia. Ernest Hemingway Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.

Ernest Hemingway Feeding Cristobal a Corn Cob at Finca Vigia. Ernest Hemingway Collection. John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, Boston.

Among these papers (many of them written in Spanish), however, is a treasure trove of lists, recipes, and writings that intimately illustrate his appetites and involvement in temporal minutiae. “He was meticulous in all ways, deeply involved in every detail of daily life and very attuned to what kinds of foods he wanted to have served,” says Sandra Spanier, an English professor at Pennsylvania State University and general editor of the Hemingway Letters Project, who has seen the papers.

On avocados: “We like avocados but we don’t want them every day. … When you serve an avocado, do not also serve tomatoes, radishes, or peppers. The avocado is enough for us.”

On the Hemingway cow: “All milk is to be used for the cats.”

A recipe for soup lists abalone, bean curd, smoked turkey, clam broth, onion, and shredded lettuce as ingredients. Instructions for Chinese vegetables have words underlined for emphasis and advise using “poco” soy sauce.

An April, 1957 order to Maison Glass, a gourmet emporium in New York City, requests that tins of whole guinea hen, whole pheasant, cèpes, and lobster bisque along with dozens of jars of preserves such as rose petal jelly and pricey bar le duc be sent to Finca Vigía “by Air Express as you usually do.”

Maison-Glass-order-Edit-2

Hemingway Collection of the Museum Ernest Hemingway of the Republic of Cuba.

Some of these writings are typed out on Collier’s magazine letterhead and filled in with handwritten corrections and notes, Spanier said. And among them, she added, is a note in Spanish,

written by Hemingway, but in the voice of his fourth wife Mary Hemingway, saying, in effect, “Please try to understand these instructions. They’re given knowing your goodwill in working hard to shop and cook well. If there’s something that you don’t understand or some problem, explain it to me and not to Mr. Hemingway, who has enough problems of his own in his work as a writer.”

Hemingway’s appetites naturally took their toll. In his last five years at Finca Vigía, he became preoccupied with his weight and blood pressure, recording both readings everyday in pencil on his bathroom wall. “It did fluctuate,” Adams said. “Sometimes he would write a word (next to a number) indicating there was a party or some reason for the fluctuation.”

Among his papers, the burger that captured my imagination was one of his more pedestrian recipes—it was no vichyssoise or white grape soup. But I needed to taste it.

It started off simply enough: ground beef, India relish, capers, and green onions, mixed with various spices, egg, and wine. (The recipe is very specific about the brand of spices; Spice Islands appeared to be the Hemingway spice brand of choice.)

Mei Yen powder, however, tripped me up. Perhaps it was a popular spice in the 1950s but in 2013, it was nowhere to be found; it turns out it was discontinued three years ago. But after some conferring with the good people at Spice Islands, I had a recipe for recreating that.

And so I began. First, I broke up the meat, scattering the garlic, onion and dry seasonings over it. After letting that rest for a smidgen, I added the relish, capers, wine, and all else and let that “sit, quietly marinating.” The smell of spices, garlic, capers, meat, and wine slowly perfumed the air of my tiny kitchen.

Hemingway liked his burgers pan-fried, not grilled. So, out came the pan. The heady scent of charred beef tinged with sage, garlic, and celery seed rapidly became unbearable. I could not wait to eat. By the time the burger was “crispy brown and the middle pink and juicy” my pangs were palpable.

HemBurger

Photo Credit: Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan

The burger was delicious: each bit of it oozed a complex and textured umami, earthy and deep. I had never experienced such a combination of flavors in a burger before and found myself eating far too quickly. But then I remembered a line I loved in A Moveable Feast, in which Hemingway describes going to Brasserie Lipp in Paris for a meal.

“The beer was very cold and wonderful to drink. … After the first heavy draft of beer I drank and ate very slowly.”

And so, I did the same. I took a sip of my cool Sancerre and slowly, I ate.

FROM EXPERIMENTING,

PAPA’S FAVORITE HAMBURGER. There is no reason why a fried hamburger has to turn out gray, greasy, paper-thin and tasteless. You can add all sorts of goodies and flavors to the ground beef -- minced mushrooms, cocktail sauce, minced garlic and onion, chopped almonds, a big dollop of piccadilli, or whatever your eye lights on. Papa prefers this combination.

Ingredients --

1 lb. ground lean beef

2 cloves, minced garlic

2 little green onions, finely chopped

1 heaping teaspoon, India relish

2 tablespoons, capers

1 heaping teaspoon, Spice Islands sage

Spice Islands Beau Monde Seasoning -- ½ teaspoon

Spice Islands Mei Yen Powder -- ½ teaspoon **

1 egg, beaten in a cup with a fork

About one third cup dry red or white wine.

1 tablespoon cooking oil

What to do --

Break up the meat with a fork and scatter the garlic, onion and dry seasonings over it, then mix them into the meat with a fork or your fingers. Let the bowl of meat sit out of the icebox for ten or fifteen minutes while you set the table and make the salad. Add the relish, capers, everything else including wine and let the meat sit, quietly marinating, for another ten minutes if possible. Now make four fat, juicy patties with your hands. The patties should be an inch thick, and soft in texture but not runny. Have the oil in your frying-pan hot but not smoking when you drop in the patties and then turn the heat down and fry the burgers about four minutes. Take the pan off the burner and turn the heat high again. Flip the burgers over, put the pan back on the hot fire, then after one minute, turn the heat down again and cook another three minutes. Both sides of the burgers should be crispy brown and the middle pink and juicy.

** Spice Islands discontinued its production of Mei Yen Powder three years ago. If you don’t have any in your pantry, here’s how to recreate it:

9 parts salt

9 parts sugar

2 parts MSG

If a recipe calls for 1 teaspoon Mei Yen Powder, use 2/3 tsp of the dry recipe (above) mixed with 1/8 tsp of soy sauce.

 

Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan is the New York City-based author of A Tiger in the Kitchen: A Memoir of Food and Family (Hyperion, 2011). She is working on her first novel and is the editor of Singapore Noir, a fiction anthology that Akashic will publish in 2014. She was a staff writer at The Wall Street Journal and her work has also appeared in The New York Times, Bon Appetit, and Food & Wine, among other publications. She has been an artist in residence at Yaddo, the Djerassi Resident Artists Program, the Studios of Key West, and the Ragdale Foundation.

 

61 COMMENTS

Next:

‹ Previous:

19 Comments

« Older Comments
  1. Cathy/ShowFoodChef | September 16, 2013 at 3:50 pm

    WOnderful article and a must try recipe. I could feel Papa in your writing. :D

  2. Zeke | September 16, 2013 at 5:46 pm

    Howdy!

    One small thing, back in the early 60s there was no such thing as pre-ground beef on a Styrofoam try wrapped in plastic.

    To make it more authentic, I would strongly suggest going to a butcher and asking for some chuck to be ground to your specifications.

    It will make an even better burger.

  3. Tim Wayne | September 17, 2013 at 3:00 pm

    “2 little green onions, finely chopped”

    I know what green onions are, and I know what little onions are. But what are little green onions? Are they regular green onions that are small? How much green onion should I have after it is finely chopped?

  4. El Sabor Asiático | September 18, 2013 at 3:57 pm

    It’s a good burger because it’s an honest burger.

  5. Averill | September 19, 2013 at 2:29 pm

    What exactly is India relish?

  6. seanachie | September 19, 2013 at 4:38 pm

    “What exactly is India relish?”

    More commonly known as picalilli, which should be commercially available in larger grocery stores. The distinctively yellow Heinz version is probably the most famous.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piccalilli

  7. J. Kerr | September 19, 2013 at 6:46 pm

    It’s unlikely that Hemingway’s burger was 1 inch thick, that’s relatively recent and a much more modern burger. Burgers were much thinner back then.

  8. Patrick Wang | September 20, 2013 at 2:34 am

    This isn’t a burger. This is meatloaf wrapped in bread buns.

  9. Asad | September 21, 2013 at 12:43 am

    So we made this tonight everything minus the Indian relish, man was it good, I will be making this again and again.

  10. Amy Smith | September 25, 2013 at 4:13 am

    Where can I find India relish? Is it available locally?

  11. Katherine | September 26, 2013 at 5:08 pm

    I am very disappointed in that bun, but if Papa approves then so be it.

  12. Arya | September 30, 2013 at 6:03 am

    I never tried it, but I will try to make it later.

  13. Chris | October 4, 2013 at 6:17 pm

    Gave it a go, accidentally used 2 lb of meat, so all the spices got really dilute. The patties were a great size though. I recommend scaling everything up by 2

  14. AndyJ | October 11, 2013 at 3:41 pm

    Hard to believe: such spare prose, such a fussy recipe. I would’ve expected something along the lines of ground beef, salt, pepper, and a tiny amount of chopped onion.

  15. マークジェイコブス セール | November 29, 2013 at 11:37 pm

    レスポートサック マークジェイコブス セール http://xinkaichbx.onlinecasual2013.com/

  16. Jan Marie | December 30, 2013 at 4:37 pm

    It just doesn’t get any
    better than seeing the gorgeous “Mrs. Anita Pelaez” over at her and her
    husband “Captain Kutchie’s” place..Some Folks Also Call Him..”The
    KutchMan others call him The Kutchmon!”…Most Just Call Him “The Most
    Interesting Man In The World”….(Anita and Kutchie Pelaez’s Key West, Key
    Lime Pie Factory and Grill)…Just watching the lovely couple baking together all those Yummy
    Key Lime Pies at their Key Lime Pie Factory and Grill in Asheville.
    …It’s always worth the trip to visit them in they’re Historic Key Lime
    Pie Factory and Grill…It should be on everyone’s bucket list for
    sure..And The World’s Best Key Lime Pies!..YUM-YUM-YUM….­­.”Talk About
    World Class” What An Understatement!…….AA­­HHHHH!….The Magic Of The
    Lovely..”Mrs. Anita Pelaez” And Her Delicious Key Lime Pies Baked With
    Pure Love…Always……40 Years And They’re Still Going Strong….

    ….May GOD Continue Blessing “Anita And Kutchie Pelaez” and They’re World
    Famous Key Lime Pie Factory And Grill Where The Personalities, Ovens And
    Smiles Are Always Warm And Inviting. “Kutcharitaville” You’re The Best We Love You!….

    …Now You Know Who Is The Hottest!…And Baby Let Me Tell You, Mrs. Anita Is No Act…She’s The Real Thing Baby!…

    ….Located Near The Biltmore House And Estate…..
    ….Who Could Ask For Anything More?…Anita’s Key Lime Pie…(Hell Yes!)

    ….Just Think, Kutchie’s Goody Goody Cheese Burgers, The Original Cheese Burgers In Paradise!
    ….That Alone Is Quite A Pretty Big Deal If You Ask Me. ….”Hell”,..It’s A Pretty Big Deal Even If You Don’t Ask Me.

  17. P Rajendran | February 22, 2014 at 1:19 pm

    Nicely written, well-crafted. Thank you.

  18. Richard Rowe | July 11, 2014 at 1:27 pm

    I hate to be argumentative, but credit for the original cheeseburger in paradise should go to the creator. According to Jimmy Buffet, as told to my son (former dive master, scuba instructor, & dive boat captain for Valentine’s Dive Shop, Harbour Island, the Bahamas) the original Cheeseburger in Paradise was the creation of “Ma Ruby”, proprietress of Ma Ruby’s, Harbour Island, the Bahamas. Back in the mid-90’s that sandwich ran about $15.00… worth it for the experience, though I do wish Ma Ruby had been willing to share her recipe.

  19. Tom Trueb | August 12, 2014 at 8:07 pm

    I’ve read two iterations of this. One called for 1/3 tsp of soy sauce, and this one says 1/8 tsp. Both are equally ridiculous, not to mention the low concentration equivalent of the Mei Yen Powder. Was he a homeopath or what?

42 Pingbacks

  1. [...] Here is a nice example. I make hamburgers every now and then and never thought about it as a deeply important, complex or interesting activity. But just today I found out that among some Hemingway papers  newly found and released, is his recipe for making a “hemingway Hamburger”. Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan writes for Paris Review  [...]

  2. [...]     – Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan goes in search of Hemingway’s perfect hamburger on the Paris Review – Richard Renaldi’s Strangers Touching. – The Man Booker Prize may be [...]

  3. [...] Hemingway’s hamburger [via The Paris Review] [...]

  4. [...] had his favorites, too.  Among them was the humble hamburger, pan-fried, not grilled.  Among his papers was found these explicit instructions for cooking Papa a proper [...]

  5. […] recipe was found by Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan. In her report on the Paris Review Daily blog, she […]

  6. […] you know Hemingway had a famous burger recipe? It sounds pretty delicious, […]

  7. […] Paris Review – Hemingway’s Hamburger, Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan […]

  8. […] a killer burger? Working from Hemingway’s newly published Cuba letters, Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan has recreated his recipe, which includes “ground beef, onions, garlic, India relish, and capers, cooked so the edges […]

  9. […] a killer burger? Working from Hemingway’s newly published Cuba letters, Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan has recreated his recipe, which includes “ground beef, onions, garlic, India relish, and capers, cooked so the edges […]

  10. […] Perhaps, this is as far as one may choose to speculate, using his hamburger recipe.  The rest could be gleamed right at the biographies section.  For those of you who want their fix of burger – that wanting coinciding with curiosity about Hemingway’s burger recipe – follow through the complete instructions found in Mike Springer’s piece or that of the food writer’s. […]

  11. […] a killer burger? Working from Hemingway’s newly published Cuba letters, Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan has recreated his recipe, which includes “ground beef, onions, garlic, India relish, and capers, cooked so the edges […]

  12. […] – Sulten? Hva med å lage favorittburgeren til Hemingway? […]

  13. […] Hemingway’s hamburger: “ground beef, onions, garlic, India relish, and capers, cooked so the edges were crispy but the center red and juicy.” I almost never eat red meat but that sounds GOOD. […]

  14. […] Hemingway’s favourite burger / via […]

  15. […] preparó ella misma el plato. Esta semana hizo el minucioso reporte sobre su experiencia en el blog del Paris Review Daily. Sus palabras, elocuentes: “Ya había hecho hamburguesas antes, infinidad de veces en […]

  16. […] to admit though, Hemingway’s personal burger recipe described in the Paris Review does not sound all that […]

  17. […] A Faithful Recreation Of Hemingway’s Favorite Hamburger… […]

  18. […] Review, the author of classics such as A Moveable Feast was meticulous about his hamburger recipe- you can find his recipe here.  Now you know what you’re doing for […]

  19. […] discovered this recipe for a burger that Hemingway might have enjoyed while writing in Havana. Here the meat is quietly […]

  20. […] Si deseas consultar el artículo original visita Hemingway’s Hamburger. […]

  21. […] found this wonderful post about Hemingway’s detailed written instructions to his household staff at Finca Vigia, his […]

  22. […] number) indicating there was a party or some reason for the fluctuation.’ Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan, “Hemingway’s Hamburger” in The Paris Review Baseline test results are in Paleo Diet Update: Two-Thirds […]

  23. […] It turns out he and his wife Mary had thing for cooking hamburgers. Their recipe is good and pretty simple, though it does call for 1960s style MSG seasoning.  You can find the recipe her here. […]

  24. […] What a great find! It looks like with a little improvisation, you can recreate Ernest Hemingway’s favorite hamburger recipe. […]

  25. […] Die Mei Yen Gewürzmischung ist mittlerweile nicht mehr im Handel erhältlich, wie man für Ersatz sorgen kann und weitere Anekdoten zum Rezept finden sich hier. […]

  26. […] has gone ahead and reprinted Ernest Hemingway’s hamburger recipe, complete with a link to The Paris Review post from last year that also teaches you how to make the ever important seasoning. The only reason I’m telling […]

  27. […] no longer makes Mei Yen Powder, but thankfully Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan provided the below recipe in her wonderful piece in The Paris […]

  28. […] is no stranger to the kitchen—A Movable Feast richly describes eating oysters in Paris, and The Sun Also Rises goes into […]

  29. […] de buenas que están es Tarantito. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKGq9gIiEuA     Otro grande de La Hamburguesa es Hemingways., aquí os dejo un buen enlace para descubrir su receta y curiosidades  En fin, como podéis […]

  30. […] attività culinarie vengono ben raccontate dalla scrittrice e giornalista Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan su the Paris Review. Nello Spazio Fumoir, un progetto espositivo curato dall’architetto Patricia Urquiola, al Piano […]

  31. […] Fue Cheryl Lu Lien Tan, la que primero halló y después reveló este tesoro gastronómico que yacía en esa papelería; preparó ella misma lo que bautizó como “La Hamburguesa de Hemingway“, que fue divulgada inicialmente en The Paris Review – septiembre 2013. […]

  32. […] 1. Hemingway liked his burgers straight out the pan, and with a cold beer. Get his original recipe for the perfect burger here, and if anyone actually does use it, let us know if it’s any good (personally, I’d have mine al fresco alongside my favourite chapter of A Moveable Feast).http://www.theparisreview.org/blog/2013/09/16/hemingways-hamburger/ […]

  33. […] From Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan for the Paris Review: […]

  34. […] info here and full recipe here, and another blogger recreated the burger […]

Leave a Comment