{"id":89404,"date":"2015-09-01T14:30:50","date_gmt":"2015-09-01T18:30:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=89404"},"modified":"2015-09-01T13:59:27","modified_gmt":"2015-09-01T17:59:27","slug":"varieties-of-reluctance","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2015\/09\/01\/varieties-of-reluctance\/","title":{"rendered":"Varieties of Reluctance"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"ethelindfearonreluctantcookalexjardine\"<\/a>

One of Alex Jardine\u2019s illustrations from The Reluctant Cook.<\/i><\/p><\/div>\n

I was delighted, at a London bookshop, to encounter a recent reissue of the 1954 Ethelind Fearon manual The Reluctant Hostess<\/em><\/a>. As far as I\u2019m concerned, Fearon\u2019s entire oeuvre should be in print always, regardless of commercial considerations. She is that idiosyncratic.<\/p>\n

Fearon, who died in 1974 and at present doesn\u2019t even rate a Wikipedia entry, was an authority on restoring medieval houses and an accomplished gardener\u2014at one point she kept H. G. Wells\u2019s garden\u2014but as her official Random House bio would have it, \u201cunder pressure from publishers and an eager public she also wrote a number of books on such diverse but essential subjects as pigkeeping, pastries, how to keep pace with your daughter, and how to grow herbs.\u201d (I want to meet every member of this supposedly clamoring public.) <\/p>\n

It\u2019s the rather dashing cooking and entertaining books that have made it back onto shelves, and it\u2019s not hard to see why. Along with their whimsical line drawings of gay and insouciant hostesses, the books boast a breezy, sometimes slapdash tone. In The Reluctant Cook<\/em> (whose 1953 cover features a hostess-aproned matron kicking back on a sofa with martini in hand and cigarette holder between lips), Fearon writes characteristically,\u00a0<\/p>\n

\n

Salad like soup can be anything. If you choose to serve cold rice pudding and stewed prunes, with a garnish of lettuce leaves and dressing of lemon juice and oil, as a salad, no one could contradict you. I know because I\u2019ve done it, but you need courage, a knowledge of the inadequacies of your opponent (which is more potent armor than any courage), and a few green olives and radishes cut into the shape of fusicia stuck on top. It\u2019s a masterpiece, and the finest known method of disposing of cold rice pudding.<\/p>\n

It is also unorthodox and cannot be advocated as a standard practice, only as an example of how fortune favors the bold.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

And here she is on removing scorch marks from linen:<\/p>\n

\n

You don\u2019t have to believe this. It smells too strongly of witchcraft. Nevertheless it is another of Grandmother\u2019s nostrums and it works, goodness knows why<\/em>. Mix half a pint of vinegar, two ounces of fuller\u2019s earth, one ounce of fowl\u2019s dung (from a cock if possible) half an ounce of soft soap and two large onions cut in pieces \u2026<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Fearon would have had fairly ready access to said cock dung\u2014clearly her heart was on the farm. Even her children\u2019s books\u2014Pluckrose\u2019s Horse<\/em>, The Sheep-Dog Adventure<\/em>, The Young Stock-Keepers<\/em>\u2014often deal with rural themes. And indeed, as jaunty as the \u201creluctant\u201d books are, it\u2019s in titles like\u00a0Me and Mr. Mountjoy<\/em> (the pig one) and 1946\u2019s\u00a0Most Happy Husbandman\u00a0<\/em>that the author\u2019s passion really shines through. The latter is probably my favorite: it chronicles a year on an Essex farm, and while it may be short on martini-quaffing hostesses (the more sober woodcut decorations are by\u00a0Bernard Reynolds) it\u2019s a book of real character. On pure title grounds, mention must also be made of A Privy in the Cactus\u00a0<\/em>and\u00a0The Marquis, the Mayonnaise and Me.<\/em>\u00a0The demands of the public, you know.<\/p>\n

Fearon\u2019s output was tremendous, her energy seemingly inexhaustible. To read her\u2014on gardens, on herbs, on parenting, on fancy cakes, on travel\u2014is to be inspired, cheered, and exhausted by proxy. One feels she\u2019d be hard to keep up with, too. It\u2019s no coincidence that the last pages of The Reluctant Hostess<\/em>\u00a0portray our heroine prostrate in a chair, a pen-and-ink swirl, presumably denoting exhaustion, above her head. This is how you feel, as a reader. And yet, her final words, like those of a hypercompetent, British Scarlett O\u2019Hara, resonate, too: \u201cSo let us eat, drink, and be merry, for tomorrow\u2014but we will leave tomorrow to speak for itself.\u201d<\/p>\n

Sadie Stein is contributing editor of <\/em>The Paris Review, and the <\/em>Daily\u2019s correspondent.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I was delighted, at a London bookshop, to encounter a recent reissue of the 1954 Ethelind Fearon manual The Reluctant Hostess. As far as I\u2019m concerned, Fearon\u2019s entire oeuvre should be in print always, regardless of commercial considerations. She is that idiosyncratic. Fearon, who died in 1974 and at present doesn\u2019t even rate a Wikipedia […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":178,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[13115],"tags":[57,19317,1621,3198,19320,7657,19319,19318],"class_list":["post-89404","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-our-daily-correspondent","tag-advice","tag-ethelind-fearon","tag-etiquette","tag-h-g-wells","tag-midcentury-writers","tag-recipes","tag-the-reluctant-cook","tag-the-reluctant-hostess"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nEthelind Fearon\u2019s Entire Oeuvre Should Be in Print\u2014Always<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Sadie Stein on the idiosyncratic books of Ethelind Fearon\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2015\/09\/01\/varieties-of-reluctance\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Varieties of Reluctance by Sadie Stein\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"September 1, 2015 \u2013 I was delighted, at a London bookshop, to encounter a recent reissue of the 1954 Ethelind Fearon manual The Reluctant Hostess. 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