{"id":8638,"date":"2010-12-08T08:00:48","date_gmt":"2010-12-08T13:00:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=8638"},"modified":"2010-12-08T14:35:04","modified_gmt":"2010-12-08T19:35:04","slug":"a-week-in-culture-amanda-hesser-food-writer","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2010\/12\/08\/a-week-in-culture-amanda-hesser-food-writer\/","title":{"rendered":"A Week in Culture: Amanda Hesser, Food Writer"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_8645\" style=\"width: 583px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/12\/Hesser-Amanda_blog.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-8645\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/12\/Hesser-Amanda_blog.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"Amanda Hesser\" width=\"573\" height=\"381\" class=\"size-full wp-image-8645\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-8645\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photograph by Sarah Shatz.<\/p><\/div>\n<h3>DAY ONE<\/h3>\n<p><strong   style=\"font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;\"\n>11:00 A.M.<\/strong> <em>Paris Review<\/em>ers: You may want to sit down for this, or drink a few stockpiled Four Lokos. I am about to rock your world with a schizophrenic, middlebrow, totally aimless, and mostly pointless cultural hodgepodge. And the jittery attention span of youth is no excuse\u2014I\u2019m well over thirty.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/12\/Screen-shot-2010-12-07-at-5.25.09-PM-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" title=\"\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-8660\" \/>An early morning of kitchen prep, latte guzzling, and e-mail scouring (<a href=\"www.techcrunch.com\">Techcrunch<\/a> is my daily must-read e-mail; I\u2019m too busy for other newsletters, though I dearly miss VSL). Then six of us begin our weekly photo shoot for <a href=\"http:\/\/www.food52.com\/\">food52<\/a>. A former food52 editor taught us oldsters the terms \u201cdouche-b\u201d and \u201cd-bag.\u201d In her honor, I play for everyone Kanye West\u2019s new song \u201c<a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=O7W0DMAx8FY\">Runaway<\/a>,\u201d whose chorus is \u201cLet\u2019s have a toast for the douchebags. Let\u2019s have a toast for the assholes. Let\u2019s have a toast for the scumbags. Everyone of them that I know.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><strong  style=\"font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;\"\n>1:30 P.M.<\/strong> Eat the fruits of our morning labor: two kinds of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.food52.com\/recipes\/7968_golden_panko_latkes_with_sour_cream_and_chives\">latkes<\/a> and a brief break to watch \u201c<a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=R9DCafQqHJA\">Don Draper Says What<\/a>?\u201d He says \u201cWhat?\u201d and looks handsome in at least forty-three different ways. Back to work, girls!<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/12\/Its-Complicated-kitchen-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-8661\" \/><strong  style=\"font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;\"\n>8:30 P.M.<\/strong> My husband, <a href=\"http:\/\/www.newyorker.com\/magazine\/bios\/tad_friend\/search?contributorName=Tad%20Friend\">Tad<\/a>, and I heap some leftovers\u2014<a href=\"http:\/\/www.food52.com\/blog\/1424_foil_roasted_salmon_with_an_aromatic_jus\">roasted salmon<\/a>, more latkes, and arugula salad from Fishkill Farms\u2014onto our dinner plates, then sit on the bedroom floor (reminder: must get TV tables!) and veg in front of <em>It\u2019s Complicated<\/em>. The Nancy Meyers movie is particularly enjoyable because we\u2019re not in the aging-boomer demographic it aims for, and thus are freed up to appreciate the calculated shrewdness\u2014and <a href=\"http:\/\/hookedonhouses.net\/2010\/01\/17\/meryl-streeps-spanish-style-ranch-in-its-complicated\/\">lifestyle porn<\/a> (the spas and island kitchens!)\u2014of the seventy-five-million-dollar mom-com.<\/p>\n<p><strong  style=\"font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;\"\n>1:00 A.M.<\/strong> Culture mulching in my new Internet-y lifestyle happens late at night. As I dig myself out of the daily e-mail blizzard, I flip back and forth between <a href=\"http:\/\/twitter.com\/#!\/amandahesser\">Twitter<\/a> and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/\">NYTimes.com<\/a>. NYTimes is like my wise parents; Twitter, my smartest pals. From Twitter, I link through to Kottke.org to read about <a href=\"http:\/\/kottke.org\/10\/11\/has-nasa-discovered-extraterrestrial-life \">extraterrestrial life<\/a>. Guiltily, I creep on over to the <em>Washington Post<\/em> to catch up on Jane Black and Brent Cunningham\u2019s <a href=\"http:\/\/www.washingtonpost.com\/wpdyn\/content\/article\/2010\/11\/26\/AR2010112603494.html\">op-ed on the food culture wars<\/a>. This is the topic foodniks have long been avoiding; I love stories that call out the elephant in the room.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/12\/susan1-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-8664\" \/><em>New Yorker<\/em> writer Susan Orlean wrote a <a href=\" http:\/\/www.food52.com\/the_piglet\/judgement\/the_frankies_spuntino_kitchen_companion_cooking_manual_vs_plenty\">cookbook review<\/a> for food52\u2019s Tournament of Cookbooks. It ran today and was such a gem in structure and tone, I read it once more, just for fun.<\/p>\n<p>Late, late: Realized that I fell so far behind on the Wikileaks hullabaloo that I have no idea where to begin: Analysis? Original breaking story? Instead, look at photos of Brad Pitt\u2019s <a href=\"http:\/\/www.huffingtonpost.com\/2010\/11\/29\/brad-pitt-steps-out-in-le_n_789457.html#s193816\">leather pants<\/a> on HuffPo. He really should not wear leather pants.<\/p>\n<h3><!--more-->DAY TWO<\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/12\/piglet-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-8667\" \/><strong  style=\"font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;\"\n>10:00 A.M.<\/strong> Today we have our Piglet Party to celebrate and announce the winner of the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.food52.com\/the_piglet\">Tournament of Cookbooks<\/a> on food52. We are expecting two hundred and fifty people. On our way to drop off the trophy and supplies at the 92nd Street Y in Tribeca, we listen to \u201c<a href=\"http:\/\/www.jonathancoulton.com\/2006\/04\/14\/thing-a-week-29-code-monkey\/\">Code Monkey<\/a>,\u201d by Jonathan Coulton.<\/p>\n<p>Shop for pig-shaped stamp in honor of the Piglet. So glad I went to college to prepare for this kind of specialized work.<\/p>\n<p><strong  style=\"font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;\"\n>2:00 P.M.<\/strong> In meeting, check out <a href=\"http:\/\/svpply.com\/\">Svpply<\/a>, a social service that allows you to build a portfolio of any clothing, jewelry, furniture, or other stylish, material goods you like, and then to follow others whose style you like. I\u2019m addicted. Look at <a href=\"http:\/\/www.lot18.com\/signin\/ref:Lw==\">Lot 18<\/a> for design inspiration.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/12\/bourdain_ss_foodporn_5926-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-8670\" \/><strong  style=\"font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;\"\n>8:00 P.M.<\/strong> Piglet Party at full tilt\u2014even a few crashers! A slide show by <em>New York Times<\/em> editors Christine Muhlke and Luise Stauss showcase food porn from the fifties to the present day\u2014everyone from Cindy Sherman to Irving Penn. Drink one too many vodka cocktails and eat one too few meals. <a href=\"http:\/\/newyork.metromix.com\/restaurants\/essay_photo_gallery\/the-piglet-party-2010\/2337197\/content\">Photos<\/a>! <\/p>\n<p><strong  style=\"font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;\"\n>12:30 A.M.<\/strong> On Twitter, <a href=\"http:\/\/twitter.com\/#!\/cpaik\">@cpaik<\/a> directs me to Epic Meal Time\u2019s \u201c<a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/EpicMealTime#p\/u\/1\/wZDv9pgHp8Q\">Breakfast of Booze<\/a>.\u201d Epic Meal Time is a food channel on YouTube created by a bunch of twenty-something guys. Have you ever seen <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2009\/01\/28\/dining\/28bacon.html\">the Bacon Explosion<\/a>? Their videos are Bacon Explosion\u2013meets\u2013Iron Chef\u2013meets\u2013bored suburban youth. I watch their entire oeuvre, and so should you. Want to meet the lead \u201c<a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2009\/01\/28\/dining\/28bacon.html?scp=1&#038;sq=bacon%20explosion&#038;st=cse\">chef<\/a>.\u201d <\/p>\n<h3>DAY THREE<\/h3>\n<p><strong  style=\"font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;\"\n>8:30 A.M.<\/strong> Read <a href=\"http:\/\/lefsetz.com\/wordpress\/index.php\/archives\/2010\/12\/01\/kanye-2\/\">Bob Lefsetz\u2019s e-mail newsletter<\/a> defending Kanye West\u2019s new album. Friend who knows West recently convinced me he\u2019s the real deal. Was captivated by his <a href=\"http:\/\/techcrunch.com\/2009\/05\/12\/kayne-west-is-mad-as-hell-at-twitter-and-hes-not-going-to-take-this-anymore\/\">Twitter rant<\/a> some weeks ago. Spent much of past week downloading his music, and my husband often finds me singing along to \u201c<a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=3qimOndxvVQ\">Dark Fantasy<\/a>\u201d on my earbuds. I am a very bad singer, and even worse when I can\u2019t really hear myself.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/12\/gothamgal-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-8674\" \/><strong  style=\"font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;\"\n>10:00 A.M.<\/strong> Read <a href=\"http:\/\/www.gothamgal.com\/\">GothamGal<\/a>. True culture vulture. A New York woman with a busy career and three mostly grown children. She goes to seemingly every art opening, restaurant opening, movie, and new band, and blogs about it all before you\u2019ve had breakfast. <\/p>\n<p><strong  style=\"font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;\"\n>2:00 P.M.<\/strong> At <a href=\"http:\/\/dogpatchlabs.com\/\">Dogpatch Labs<\/a>, the Internet incubator where I work, <a href=\"http:\/\/twitter.com\/#!\/MerrillStubbs\">@MerrillStubbs<\/a>, <a href=\"http:\/\/twitter.com\/#!\/SarahRich\">@SarahRich<\/a> and I page through vintage <em>Good Housekeeping<\/em> pamphlets, <em>Gastronomica<\/em>, the 11 Madison Park food magazine, and <em>Long Shot<\/em> magazine. Look for inspiration, study trim sizes for <em>food52<\/em> magazine.<\/p>\n<p><strong  style=\"font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;\"\n>7:00 P.M.<\/strong> A few months ago, a dinner with Merrill and me was auctioned at a Greenmarket fundraiser. (Was too afraid to ask how little it went for.) Today is the cash-in day, so we meet our patrons for dinner at Hearth. Twelve courses later, we are whooping it up with our newfound pals. Discussion of whether \u201ckids today\u201d read\u2014a favorite oldster topic (kids today, with their rap and sexting!). Also cover about eight plays and movies I\u2019ve never seen, including <em>1000 Clowns<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p><em>Amanda Hesser is a <a href=\"http:\/\/topics.nytimes.com\/topics\/reference\/timestopics\/people\/h\/amanda_hesser\/index.html\">columnist<\/a> for <\/em>The New York Times<em>, a cofounder of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.food52.com\/\">food52<\/a>, and the author, most recently, of <\/em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Essential-New-York-Times-Cookbook\/dp\/0393061035\">The Essential New York Times Cookbook<\/a>. <em>Check back tomorrow for the second installment of her culture diary. <\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>DAY ONE 11:00 A.M. Paris Reviewers: You may want to sit down for this, or drink a few stockpiled Four Lokos. I am about to rock your world with a schizophrenic, middlebrow, totally aimless, and mostly pointless cultural hodgepodge. And the jittery attention span of youth is no excuse\u2014I\u2019m well over thirty. An early morning [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":95,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[23],"tags":[1424,1499,1495,1497,1498,125,1494,1496,1500],"class_list":["post-8638","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-the-culture-diaries","tag-amanda-hesser","tag-food-porn","tag-food52","tag-kanye-west","tag-merrill-stubbs","tag-new-york-city","tag-new-york-times","tag-piglet-party","tag-tad-friend"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.4 (Yoast SEO v25.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>A Week in Culture: Amanda Hesser, Food Writer by Amanda Hesser<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"December 8, 2010 \u2013 DAY ONE 11:00 A.M. Paris Reviewers: You may want to sit down for this, or drink a few stockpiled Four Lokos. 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