{"id":81271,"date":"2015-01-06T17:15:11","date_gmt":"2015-01-06T22:15:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=81271"},"modified":"2015-01-07T16:16:01","modified_gmt":"2015-01-07T21:16:01","slug":"a-night-out-in-the-twenties-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2015\/01\/06\/a-night-out-in-the-twenties-2\/","title":{"rendered":"A Night Out in the Twenties"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_81296\" style=\"width: 610px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/ruth_gordon_1919.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-81296\" class=\"wp-image-81296 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/ruth_gordon_1919.jpg\" alt=\"Ruth_Gordon_1919\" width=\"600\" height=\"584\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/ruth_gordon_1919.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/01\/ruth_gordon_1919-300x292.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (min-width: 62.5em) 67vw, 100vw\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-81296\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ruth Gordon in 1919.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>In <em>The Leopard<\/em>, Giuseppe Tomasi di\u00a0Lampedusa\u00a0refers to \u201cthat\u00a0most absurd of emotions,\u00a0retrospective jealousy.\u201d He\u2019s talking about sexual jealousy; in the way of new lovers, a young woman finds herself bitterly resenting her fianc\u00e9\u2019s old flames, real and suspected. But the phrase has wider application. I\u2019d guess most of us have experienced a longing for past times, places, eras, that bordered on resentful. Possibility and idealism and cheap rents\u2014it all comes together to burnish just about any time but our own.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Romanticizing is the easiest thing in the world. Sometimes it seems like our current brand of nostalgia doesn\u2019t take skill or imagination, just a modicum of dissatisfaction, a sketchy grasp of history, and enough brain space to remember your last pass around the fishbowl. Very pernicious, too; if you don\u2019t watch yourself, you wake up one day and you\u2019re Christopher Reeve in <em>Somewhere in Time<\/em>. (Well, okay, that\u2019s an extreme case.)\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>I tell myself this. And yet, sometimes, you are reading Arthur Schwartz\u2019s magisterial <em>New York City Food<\/em> and you come across this description, by Ruth Gordon, of a night on the town in the twenties, and there is nothing for it but to give in.\u00a0<!--more--><\/p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>For a really swell night out in the Twenties you\u2019d probably start out at an elegant place like the Crystal Room in the old Ritz-Carlton on Madison Avenue. Oh, did they have wonderful food there. You ordered \u00e0\u00a0la carte of course. Anything you wanted. You\u2019d start off with the oysters, then you\u2019d have a lovely soup with croutons on the side. Then, if you were truly eleganza, you\u2019d have some fish, and then you\u2019d have the game, if it was in season. (That was Fanny Brice\u2019s great restaurant line\u2014\u201cGive me anything, as long as it\u2019s out of season.\u201d) Or you\u2019d have the gigot\u2014which was a big thing all by itself. Nobody thought too much about salad. Salad, in those days, was lobster salad or chicken salad. And the desserts were paradise\u2014Baked Alaska and profiteroles! Nobody cared about diets. Everybody ate chocolates and cakes and whipped cream. Adele Astaire, a friend of mine, had a chocolate soda every day of her life, as I did for the most part, and once I said to her, \u201cWhy don\u2019t we ever get fat?\u201d She said, \u201cWe are just fortunate that we are blessed with poor assimilation.\u201d I don\u2019t know what she meant by that, but it\u2019s true that we ate anything that we wanted to and we certainly did not get fat.<\/p>\n<p>After a lovely late dinner at the Crystal Room you\u2019d go over to Harry Richmond\u2019s Wigwam Club. Of course it was during Prohibition so you\u2019d have to order something like Chicken \u00e0\u00a0la King just to hold the table, but actually you were there just to have more illegal drinks. Depending on how you felt at two or three in the morning, you\u2019d make your way up to Harlem and go to Small\u2019s Paradise or The Savoy to hear the great bands. Then you might have a snack at one of the little Harlem bistros where you would eat what we now identify as \u201csoul food.\u201d At seven or eight in the morning you\u2019d arrive at Reuben\u2019s, which was on Fifty-eighth Street between Fifth and Madison, where you would have breakfast. And everybody who was anybody was always there.<\/p>\n<p>Going out in the Twenties was so glamorous, so dazzling. Everybody was beautiful and everybody was sexy and nobody was economical. If you weren\u2019t glamorous and beautiful you stayed home. But the whole idea was to have money, to be striking. Nobody was concerned about being cultured or being talented.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p>Friends have suggested we try to replicate this evening, but I don\u2019t think it can be done. After all, we\u2019d have to do far too much thinking, and that has a way of ruining these things. Anyway, I don\u2019t think I\u2019d be much good at an evening like that. It sounds exhausting and gut-busting, and \u201cthe idea of having money\u201d notwithstanding, even time travel, magic, and inter-war prices wouldn\u2019t stand me that kind of spree.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Besides, a laundry list of restaurants and addresses misses the point. What\u2019s appealing about this quote is not just the Rabelaisian night she describes; it\u2019s the fact of an old woman remembering something as perfect. Of knowing what it is to never want to be anywhere else\u2014or at least thinking you do. Doesn\u2019t that seem wonderful? Nostalgia for nostalgia! That\u2019s dangerous, for sure. Or at least absurd.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/4026160459_4c9bde3f44_z.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-46785\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/02\/4026160459_4c9bde3f44_z.jpg\" alt=\"4026160459_4c9bde3f44_z\" width=\"425\" height=\"640\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><em>Sadie Stein is contributing editor of\u00a0<\/em>The Paris Review<em>, and the\u00a0<\/em>Daily<em>\u2019s correspondent.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In The Leopard, Giuseppe Tomasi di\u00a0Lampedusa\u00a0refers to \u201cthat\u00a0most absurd of emotions,\u00a0retrospective jealousy.\u201d He\u2019s talking about sexual jealousy; in the way of new lovers, a young woman finds herself bitterly resenting her fianc\u00e9\u2019s old flames, real and suspected. But the phrase has wider application. I\u2019d guess most of us have experienced a longing for past times, [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":178,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[13115],"tags":[10056,16503,14919,16506,125,4693,16505,16504,7136],"class_list":["post-81271","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-our-daily-correspondent","tag-1920s","tag-arthur-schwartz","tag-giuseppe-tomasi-di-lampedusa","tag-going-out","tag-new-york-city","tag-nostalgia-2","tag-retrospective-jealousy","tag-romanticizing","tag-ruth-gordon"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.4 (Yoast SEO v25.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Can You Read About New York in the 1920s Without Nostalgia?<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Sadie Stein rereads Ruth Gordon\u2019s account of going out in the 1920s, and reflects on the pernicious side of nostalgia.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2015\/01\/06\/a-night-out-in-the-twenties-2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A Night Out in the Twenties by Sadie Stein\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"January 6, 2015 \u2013 In The Leopard, Giuseppe Tomasi di\u00a0Lampedusa\u00a0refers to \u201cthat\u00a0most absurd of emotions,\u00a0retrospective jealousy.\u201d He\u2019s talking about sexual jealousy; 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