{"id":67681,"date":"2014-03-07T14:28:46","date_gmt":"2014-03-07T19:28:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=67681"},"modified":"2014-03-07T14:25:35","modified_gmt":"2014-03-07T19:25:35","slug":"pork-products-in-the-work-of-harper-lee","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2014\/03\/07\/pork-products-in-the-work-of-harper-lee\/","title":{"rendered":"Pork Products in the Work of Harper Lee"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"George_Morland_Vor_dem_Schweinestall_1793\"<\/a>

Detail from George Morland\u2019s Vor dem Schweinestall<\/i>, 1793.<\/p><\/div>\n

Yesterday, the estimable Margaret Eby sent me something she had run across in The Artists\u2019 and Writers\u2019 Cookbook<\/em>, a 1961 oddity fiercely beloved by culinary bibliophiles. This book\u2014which featured an introduction by Alice B. Toklas and illustrations by Marcel Duchamp\u2014is a treasure trove of literary arcana, containing as it does entries from contributors as wide-ranging as\u00a0Man Ray, George Sand, and John Keats. (Maria Popova did a terrific post<\/a> on TAAWC<\/em>, if you want to see more.)<\/p>\n

One of the more contemporary offerings, and that which Margaret passed along, is Harper Lee\u2019s recipe for cracklin\u2019 cornbread. It reads as follows: <\/p>\n

\n

First, catch your pig. Then ship it to the abattoir nearest you. Bake what they send back. Remove the solid fat and throw the rest away. Fry fat, drain off liquid grease, and combine the residue (called \u201ccracklings\u201d) with:
1 \u00bd cups water-ground white meal
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 egg
1 cup milk
Bake in very hot oven until brown (about 15 minutes).
Result: one pan crackling bread serving 6. Total cost: about $250, depending upon size of pig. Some historians say this recipe alone fell the Confederacy.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

This is noteworthy not merely because of its author\u2019s famous reclusiveness, but also because\u2014in combination with To Kill a Mockingbird<\/em>\u2014it indicates a certain preoccupation with pork. Scout, as we know, represents a ham\u2014complete with visible fat streaks that shine under the streetlight\u2014in the town pageant.<\/p>\n

\n

Mrs Grace Merriweather had composed an original pageant entitled Maycomb County: Ad Astra per Aspera, and I was to be a ham. She thought it would be adorable if some of the children were costumed to represent the county\u2019s agricultural products: Cecil Jacobs would be dressed up to look like a cow; Agnes Boone would make a lovely butter-bean, another child would be a peanut, and on down the line until Mrs Merriweather\u2019s imagination and the supply of children was exhausted \u2026 My costume was not much of a problem. Mrs Crenshaw, the local seamstress, had as much imagination as Mrs Merriweather. Mrs Crenshaw took some chicken wire and bent it into the shape of a cured ham. This she covered with brown cloth, and painted it to resemble the original. I could duck under and someone would pull the contraption down over my head. It came almost to my knees. Mrs Crenshaw thoughtfully left two peepholes for me. She did a fine job; [my brother] Jem said I looked exactly like a ham with legs. There were several discomforts, though; it was hot, it was a close fit; if my nose itched I couldn\u2019t scratch, and once inside I could not get out of it alone.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Later, as Scout and Jem are walking home in the dark, they are attacked by a crazed Bob Ewell. As she tells the sheriff,<\/p>\n

\n

\u201cWell, after Jem yelled we walked on. Mr. Tate, I was shut up in my costume but I could hear it myself, then. Footsteps, I mean. They walked when we walked and stopped when we stopped. Jem said he could see me because Mrs. Crenshaw put some kind of shiny paint on my costume. I was a ham.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cHow\u2019s that?\u201d asked Mr. Tate, startled. Atticus described my role to Mr. Tate, plus the construction of my garment. \u201cYou should have seen her when she came in,\u201d he said, \u201cit was crushed to a pulp.\u201d<\/p>\n

Mr. Tate rubbed his chin. \u201cI wondered why he had those marks on him. His sleeves were perforated with little holes. There were one or two little puncture marks on his arms to match the holes. Let me see that thing if you will, sir.\u201d<\/p>\n

Atticus fetched the remains of my costume. Mr. Tate turned it over and bent it around to get an idea of its former shape. \u201cThis thing probably saved her life,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n

\u201cLook.\u201d He pointed with a long forefinger. A shiny clean line stood out on the dull wire. \u201cBob Ewell meant business,\u201d Mr. Tate muttered.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Pork, then, is both confederate bane and savior in the work of Miss Lee. As to cracklin\u2019 cornbread, those of us who make less than nine thousand a day in royalties can create a decent approximation <\/a>with a fatty piece of ham. But this may affect the totemic qualities thereof. It does, however, allow you to employ another key quote from To Kill a Mockingbird<\/em>: \u201cPass the damn ham, please.\u201d<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Yesterday, the estimable Margaret Eby sent me something she had run across in The Artists\u2019 and Writers\u2019 Cookbook, a 1961 oddity fiercely beloved by culinary bibliophiles. This book\u2014which featured an introduction by Alice B. Toklas and illustrations by Marcel Duchamp\u2014is a treasure trove of literary arcana, containing as it does entries from contributors as wide-ranging […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":178,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[13115],"tags":[115,5821,13116,7657,13118,13117],"class_list":["post-67681","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-our-daily-correspondent","tag-food","tag-harper-lee","tag-pork","tag-recipes","tag-the-artists-and-writers-cookbook","tag-to-kill-a-mockingbird"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nPork Products in the Work of Harper Lee<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"March 7, 2014 \u2013 Yesterday, the estimable Margaret Eby sent me something she had run across in The Artists\u2019 and Writers\u2019 Cookbook, a 1961 oddity fiercely beloved by\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" 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