{"id":67185,"date":"2014-02-25T14:14:13","date_gmt":"2014-02-25T19:14:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=67185"},"modified":"2014-02-26T12:38:48","modified_gmt":"2014-02-26T17:38:48","slug":"sketches-from-the-elbulli-kitchen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2014\/02\/25\/sketches-from-the-elbulli-kitchen\/","title":{"rendered":"Sketches from the elBulli Kitchen"},"content":{"rendered":"<script>\/* <![CDATA[ *\/ portfolio_slideshow.slideshows[814] = {\"timeout\":\"4000\",\"autoplay\":\"false\",\"trans\":\"fade\",\"loop\":\"true\",\"speed\":\"400\",\"nowrap\":\"true\"}; \/* ]]> *\/<\/script><div id=\"slideshow-wrapper814\" class=\"slideshow-wrapper clearfix portfolio-slideshow-centered\">\n<div id=\"slideshow-nav814\" class=\"slideshow-nav\">\n\t<a class=\"pause\" style=\"display:none\" href=\"javascript:void(0);\">Pause<\/a>\n\t<a class=\"play\" href=\"javascript:void(0);\">Play<\/a>\n\t<a class=\"restart\" 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src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" height=\"429\" width=\"600\" alt=\"Slide 10\"><\/a>\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\t<div class=\"slideshow-next slideshow-content not-first\">\n\t\t<a class=\"slideshow-next\" href=\"javascript:void(0)\" ><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"psp-active\" data-img=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/12.jpg\" src=\"data:image\/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP\/\/\/yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7\" height=\"600\" width=\"600\" alt=\"Slide 11\"><\/a>\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t<\/div>\n<div class=\"slideshow-meta\">\n\n\t\n\t\t\t<p class=\"slideshow-caption\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\n\t\t\t<div class=\"slideshow-description\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\n\n\t\n\t\t\t<p class=\"slideshow-caption\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\n\t\t\t<div class=\"slideshow-description\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\n\n\t\n\t\t\t<p class=\"slideshow-caption\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\n\t\t\t<div class=\"slideshow-description\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\n\n\t\n\t\t\t<p class=\"slideshow-caption\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\n\t\t\t<div class=\"slideshow-description\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\n\n\t\n\t\t\t<p class=\"slideshow-caption\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\n\t\t\t<div class=\"slideshow-description\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\n\n\t\n\t\t\t<p class=\"slideshow-caption\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\n\t\t\t<div class=\"slideshow-description\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\n\n\t\n\t\t\t<p class=\"slideshow-caption\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\n\t\t\t<div class=\"slideshow-description\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\n\n\t\n\t\t\t<p class=\"slideshow-caption\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\n\t\t\t<div class=\"slideshow-description\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\n\n\t\n\t\t\t<p class=\"slideshow-caption\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\n\t\t\t<div class=\"slideshow-description\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\n\n\t\n\t\t\t<p class=\"slideshow-caption\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\n\t\t\t<div class=\"slideshow-description\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\n\n\t\n\t\t\t<p class=\"slideshow-caption\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\n\t\t\t<div class=\"slideshow-description\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\n<\/div><\/div><!--#slideshow-wrapper-->\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.drawingcenter.org\/en\/drawingcenter\/5\/exhibitions\/6\/current\/502\/ferran-adria\/\" target=\"_blank\"><em>Ferran Adri\u00e0: Notes on Creativity<\/em><\/a>, on view at the Drawing Center in New York through this week, seeks to claim the status of artist for one of the most innovative chefs working today. Adri\u00e0 gained fame at the now-shuttered Spanish restaurant elBulli, where he sustained a three-star Michelin rating for fourteen years and garnered comparisons to another famous Catalan, Salvador Dali. To call a chef an artist can smack of hyperbole, but the new vanguard in contemporary cuisine, led in no small part by Adri\u00e0, is defying previous definitions of gastronomy. But despite the surge in technique\u2014and for that matter, cost\u2014food\u2019s ephemeral, basic-need status inclines art purists to consider it\u00a0a flash in the pan. <em>Notes on Creativity<\/em> resolves these tensions with sketches and notes that indicate the complex, restless work of Adri\u00e0\u2019s kitchen, to say nothing of his mind.<\/p>\n<p>The objects on display\u2014ledgers, notebooks, scrap paper\u2014illuminate the extent to which cooking is a creative process, as impassioned and compulsory as any. While he ran elBulli, Adri\u00e0 kept detailed records, filling stray pieces of paper with plating ideas, loose concepts, and flavor profiles. In these ephemera we see the evolution of Adri\u00e0\u2019s style over decades, and his determination to articulate his designs. The sketches are a window into the expanse of Adri\u00e0\u2019s imagination, in particular the plasticity of his process. As it turns out, he is just as likely to start with a visual impression of a dish, figuring out the flavor components later, as he is to begin with an ingredient\u2014an approach that seems like the culinary equivalent of Ginger Rogers doing Fred Astaire\u2019s moves backward and in heels. <!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Though Adri\u00e0 has received the lion\u2019s share of attention at elBulli, his collaborations are prevalent throughout the exhibition. Adri\u00e0 championed the use of foam and mists in food, but it was the designer Luki Huber who figured out how to present and plate them. The star chef\u2019s innovation often found expression in reshaping classic recipes. A corkboard displaying his staff\u2019s reinterpretations of peach Melba suggests he nurtured this thinking in others. In this light, elBulli\u2019s kitchen can be seen as something resembling a Renaissance workshop, with a dynamic culture of invention and instruction.<\/p>\n<p>As art objects, the works are uneven. Huber\u2019s food conveying devices\u2014to call them simply<em> plates<\/em> would be a misnomer\u2014are intriguing as design objects, but Adri\u00e0\u2019s tree charts, which explicate his theories of food evolution, range from opaque to overwrought. <em>Notes on Creativity<\/em> could have used some editing, but in its totality, even the weakest drawings have value\u2014they show us the font of Adri\u00e0\u2019s creativity, which, once uncapped, is difficult to dam.<\/p>\n<p>Notes on Creativity<em> will travel extensively after its time at the Drawing Center.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Lilly Lampe is a writer and art critic based in Brooklyn. Her writing has appeared in\u00a0<\/em>Art in America<em>, <\/em>ArtAsiaPacific<em>, <\/em>Art Papers<em>, Artforum.com, and\u00a0<\/em>Modern Painters<em>, among others.<\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ferran Adri\u00e0: Notes on Creativity, on view at the Drawing Center in New York through this week, seeks to claim the status of artist for one of the most innovative chefs working today. Adri\u00e0 gained fame at the now-shuttered Spanish restaurant elBulli, where he sustained a three-star Michelin rating for fourteen years and garnered comparisons [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":651,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2384],"tags":[12977,1671,12974,12976,12975,12973,115],"class_list":["post-67185","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-look","tag-chefs","tag-cooking","tag-drawing-center","tag-drawings","tag-elbulli","tag-ferran-adria","tag-food"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.4 (Yoast SEO v25.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>See elBulli Chef Ferran Adri\u00e0\u2019s Food Drawings<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"February 25, 2014 \u2013 Ferran Adri\u00e0: Notes on Creativity, on view 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