{"id":37343,"date":"2012-08-20T15:00:07","date_gmt":"2012-08-20T19:00:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=37343"},"modified":"2012-08-21T10:28:03","modified_gmt":"2012-08-21T14:28:03","slug":"letter-from-tibet-the-permit-part-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2012\/08\/20\/letter-from-tibet-the-permit-part-1\/","title":{"rendered":"Letter from India: The Permit, Part 1"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

We were on our way to a small Tibetan colony in Himachal Pradesh. I lived there for about a year in 2008 and wanted to show it to my traveling companion, Clancy. Also the house where I stayed is very peaceful and nice, and I thought it would be a good place for Clancy to finish the book he is working on. We had about ten days to spend there and were in agreement: no cars, no roads.<\/p>\n

I wrote to the manager of the house, which is called Old Labrang. It is a guesthouse, but you can\u2019t really stay there unless you get the okay from the manager. In the past when I stayed there, it was during the off-season. Since my last visit, the place had undergone major renovations and is now, by any standard, a desirable place to stop. Palazzo floors, an interior garden with flowers and orange trees. It costs eight dollars a night, and as a result I had a feeling that this time there would be a problem securing a room. I didn\u2019t want to sit down and write the request.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\nWhen I finally did, a few days went by before I got an answer. In it, the manager, Wyatt, who is twenty-six or so and has been a friend of mine for several years, said maybe. It depended on when this certain guest, whom he called Lopon would arrive. The next day, a second e-mail said Lopon was getting there early, and we couldn\u2019t stay.<\/p>\n

\nI made a plea. I said Clancy and I could leave early. I explained we were nervous about finding a room.<\/p>\n

\nWyatt wrote back. He explained that we couldn\u2019t stay in the Old Labrang, now mentioning the new law that required visitors to the colony to get a Protected Area Permit. He said that we wouldn\u2019t need one for the local guesthouses.<\/p>\n

\nWe were staying about five hours from the colony when I read that e-mail. We gave up, drove to town, and pulled up in front of my favorite guesthouse in Bir\u2014maybe my favorite guesthouse in the world\u2014Chokling Guest House. It\u2019s a three-story place run by Chokling Monastery. It is white with an open stairwell. On the first floor, rooms are oversize with hardwood floors. They overlook a creek, so you sleep to the sound of running water. I thought, This is better than the Old Labrang. I should have come straight here and not fooled with that Wyatt business.<\/p>\n

\nBut all the old faces were gone. It was a loss. The old chef used to make a vegetable soup to order that I still crave in America. A very attractive young Tibetan couple stood behind the desk. The sight of us made them nervous.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe are all booked after August first,\u201d they said. \u201cBesides, you will need the permit.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n\u201cWe are sick,\u201d Clancy said. \u201cWe\u2019ve just gotten to town.\u201d<\/p>\n

\nHe is sly, so I was quiet. I\u2019d seen him finesse similar minor interferences before. But the couple was firm. \u201cWe are booked. You need the PAP pass. You can get it in Dharamsala.\u201d They were proposing a two-and-a-half-hour drive. We\u2019d been in the car for seven. Mountain roads. Switchbacks. Rock slides. The road washed over in places by waterfalls. Erratic driving.<\/p>\n

Clancy said, \u201cCan you suggest another guesthouse in the area?\u201d<\/p>\n

\nThat one got them. He\u2019d checkmated them with their own nice manners. They were quiet. Then they broke: one night.<\/p>\n

\nI wrote to Wyatt a third time, pleading, even manipulating. He wrote back and explained that our room was taken by someone on the board. He said he was sorry about our situation, but the Old Labrang did give priority to board members. I heard or imagined injury in his tone. I said to Clancy, \u201cI think he thinks I was arrogant.\u201d<\/p>\n

\nThe next day, the man from Chokling Guest House, Tenzin, went to a meeting on PAP passes in Dharamsala. The meeting went late so his wife\u2014who seemed slightly older and wiser than Tenzin\u2014said of course we were welcome a second night. Tenzin joined us that evening at dinner.<\/p>\n

\n\u201cI have been to the meeting,\u201d he said. \u201cMay I sit? It is very confusing. For Indian guesthouses, it\u2019s okay. You don\u2019t need a permit, but to walk around the colony, you need a permit. We have told the police commissioner, this makes no sense, and he has even agreed. I said to him, \u2018This is discrimination.\u2019 He agreed with me. He has said to me, \u2018Even I am confused about this law. I did not write it. It comes to me.\u2019 This permit makes no sense. I cannot see any reason in it at all.\u201d<\/p>\n

\nClancy and I tried not to smile at each other. At last, a bit of luck.<\/p>\n

\nTenzin paused, \u201cSo I think you better get it.\u201d<\/p>\n

[tweetbutton]<\/p>\n

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