{"id":32345,"date":"2012-07-19T12:00:22","date_gmt":"2012-07-19T16:00:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=32345"},"modified":"2018-12-03T17:35:17","modified_gmt":"2018-12-03T22:35:17","slug":"character-studies-lady-brett-ashley","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2012\/07\/19\/character-studies-lady-brett-ashley\/","title":{"rendered":"Character Studies: Lady Brett Ashley"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\u201cDamned good-looking\u201d is how Ernest Hemingway\u2014or, rather, his antihero Jake Barnes in <em>The Sun Also Rises<\/em>\u2014describes Lady Brett Ashley when she appears at a Parisian club with a mob of pretty boys. \u201cDamned good-looking\u201d is better than pretty. It\u2019s better than the colloquial \u201chot,\u201d better than beautiful, even.<\/p>\n<p>Damned good-looking, it is.<\/p>\n<p>Imagine Hemingway, the great economist of words, deciding just how he would introduce perhaps his most enduring siren. Original drafts of the novel open with the character Ashley (better known as Brett), though she would eventually come to play a smaller role. Hemingway was bewitched, at the time of writing, by the self-possession of the real-life Lady Duff Twysden, and she\u2014rather than his wife, Hadley\u2014would serve as the partial inspiration for <em>The Sun Also Rises<\/em>\u2019s heroine. (Indeed, he would dedicate later editions of the novel to her.)<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Poor Hadley would be left out again when her husband took up with Lady Brett\u2019s other progenitor, Pauline Pfeiffer, who in 1926 came to France to assist Mainbocher at <em>Vogue<\/em>. In addition to being a fashion writer, Pfeiffer was an accomplished journalist, an intellectual who fit easily into Hemingway\u2019s Paris crew. It seems Hemingway\u2019s rigid conception of a professional, globe-trotting man\u2019s man\u2014a fan of hunting, boxing and bullfighting\u2014shouldn\u2019t settle for <em>pretty<\/em>; he\u2019d want <em>damn good-looking<\/em>. \u201cDamn good-looking\u201d\u2014Hemingway\u2019s highest female accolade\u2014is also, in the form of Lady Brett, damn witty, damn intelligent, and damn good in bed.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s also, not incidentally, damn good style. Take, as example, Brett\u2019s arrival in the first scene of <em>The Sun Also Rises<\/em>: She\u2019s wearing a thin crewneck sweater, described as a tight-fitting wool jersey. It shows off her \u201ccurves like the hull of a racing yacht\u201d\u2014a man\u2019s oversized toy. Brett\u2019s paired this top with a tweed skirt\u2014nothing breezy or delicate\u2014and a man\u2019s felt hat (although at one point she switches it for a Basque beret). In a later chapter, it\u2019s noted that she doesn\u2019t wear any stockings, as she perches on a high stool.<\/p>\n<p>Twenties fashion had brought its own kind of loose freedom: bobbed hair, dropped waists, shortened skirts and rolled stockings. Curves became more visible under less structured clothes. There was the magic of Molyneux, Chanel\u2019s sleek silhouettes, and, later in the decade, Schiaparelli\u2019s Surrealist designs.<\/p>\n<p>Brett takes all this further. Her hair is an androgynous style \u201cbrushed back like a boy.\u201d (Later in the novel, her lover, the bullfighter Romero, asks her to grow her hair long\u2014which she refuses.) Brett abandons the standard cloche in favor of a more masculine hat, shows off her body beneath her sweater, and, rather than rolling them down, wears no stockings at all as she dances and drinks in public.<\/p>\n<p>When I was thirteen and first met Brett, I was bewitched by her insouciance. Her seductive powers were obvious, but she also bucked authority and social mores of the time. How heavenly to not worry what anyone thought, to engage in the forbidden pleasures of alcohol and sex. As I grew older, I was charmed by another side of Brett. She was a thirty-four-year-old patrician divorc\u00e9e with the gall to sleep with a bullfighter fifteen years her junior. Brett could have taken up with Robert Cohn, with his Ivy league degree, literary success, and unerring devotion, but she\u2019s a self-sufficient woman who unabashedly partakes in pleasure-seeking. She doesn\u2019t settle; not even her love of the impotent Barnes is enough for her to yield to her carnal desires.<\/p>\n<p>Subconsciously, perhaps, Brett\u2019s appeal also lies in that her true allure, her charm and sexual confidence, can be channeled by anyone, even those of us who don\u2019t feel conventionally attractive. (That said, Ava Gardner\u2014nothing if not beautiful\u2014not only played Brett in the film adaptation, but channeled her, taking up with a bullfighter while filming.) She\u2019s not blond or brunette, green- or blue-eyed. As Brett and Jake ride along in a taxi, her hat comes off and the streetlights illuminate her face, and we are treated to the book\u2019s only description of her features. \u201cBrett\u2019s face was white and the long line of her neck showed in the bright light of the flares.\u201d That\u2019s it. For all the reader knows, Brett may not even be classically beautiful\u2014rather, perhaps she\u2019s a<em> jolie-laide<\/em> who lures men with her charm. When her beauty\u2019s complimented, she counters, \u201cBeautiful. With this nose?\u201d The universal appeal of Brett\u2019s look is that it\u2019s more about insouciance and style. But what makes Brett\u2019s odd gamine-bombshell hybrid most alluring isn\u2019t simply the clothes, but her attitude &#8230; and also that a man\u2014Hemingway, at that\u2014imagined her.<\/p>\n<p>On some level, perhaps it is reassuring to know that the ultimate man\u2019s man embraced such a nuanced ideal. However complicated his legacy, Hemingway did define a certain hypermasculinity. \u201cDamn good-looking\u201d might not have resonated quite the same coming from, say, Gertrude Stein.<\/p>\n<p><em><a href=\"www.stephanielacava.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Stephanie LaCava<\/a> is a writer working in New York City and Paris whose work has appeared in <\/em>Vogue, T: The New YorkTimes Style Magazine,<em> and other publications. Her literary debut, <\/em>An Extraordinary Theory of Objects (HarperCollins)<em> will be released this December.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u201cDamned good-looking\u201d is how Ernest Hemingway\u2014or, rather, his antihero Jake Barnes in The Sun Also Rises\u2014describes Lady Brett Ashley when she appears at a Parisian club with a mob of pretty boys. \u201cDamned good-looking\u201d is better than pretty. It\u2019s better than the colloquial \u201chot,\u201d better than beautiful, even. Damned good-looking, it is. Imagine Hemingway, the [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":45,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[489],"tags":[571,3292,8165,8164,8166,7110],"class_list":["post-32345","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-books-2","tag-ernest-hemingway","tag-gertrude-stein","tag-hadley-hemingway","tag-lady-brett-ashley","tag-pauline-pfeiffer","tag-the-sun-also-rises"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.4 (Yoast SEO v25.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Character Studies: Lady Brett Ashley by Stephanie LaCava<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"July 19, 2012 \u2013 \u201cDamned good-looking\u201d is how Ernest Hemingway\u2014or, rather, his antihero Jake Barnes in The Sun Also Rises\u2014describes Lady Brett Ashley when she 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