{"id":21355,"date":"2011-09-26T13:00:16","date_gmt":"2011-09-26T17:00:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=21355"},"modified":"2011-09-26T17:16:45","modified_gmt":"2011-09-26T21:16:45","slug":"at-the-bazaar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2011\/09\/26\/at-the-bazaar\/","title":{"rendered":"At the Bazaar"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"<\/a>

Ralph Gibson, Caroline Winberg (Harper\u2019s Bazaar<\/em>, May 2005).<\/p><\/div>\n

It\u2019s easy to overlook that Vogue<\/em>, seemingly eponymous with the word fashion<\/em>, debuted after Harper\u2019s Bazaar<\/em>, <\/em>America\u2019s first fashion magazine. Steeped longer in the Victorianism that defined the nineteenth century, Bazaar<\/em> set about cataloguing the changes that an era of colonialism and industrialization brought to women\u2019s dress. The original weekly (titled Harper\u2019s Bazar<\/em>) <\/em>saw its first printing in November of 1867, as a slim, sixteen-page newsprint volume featuring drawings and articles on every aspect of fashion. The news item \u201cColors\u201d reads more like an issue of political importance. (\u201cBismarck, or gold-brown, is the prevailing shade, and reappears in some guise almost every where. The new shades of green are its only formidable rivals. The deep green known as \u2018Invisible,\u2019 now called \u2018Mermaid,\u2019 is in great favor.\u201d) An early cover from an 1868 issue shows hand-drawn hairstyles alongside paper-doll-like figures<\/a>, nodding at French sophistication with hairdo trends like the \u201cdiadem of curls\u201d and the \u201cfleur de lis coiffure of braids.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cHarper\u2019s Bazaar: A Decade of Style<\/a>\u201d at the International Center of Photography catalogues the transformations that technology of a different sort wrought on women\u2019s bodies. The collection of more than thirty images\u2014vivid color photographs from the past decade under editor Glenda Bailey\u2014features work by famed fashion photographers such as Patrick Demarchelier, Terry Richardson, and Peter Lindbergh, as well as art-world luminaries like Nan Goldin and Chuck Close.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Patrick Demarchelier, Stephanie Seymour (Harper\u2019s Bazaar<\/em>, February 2002).<\/p><\/div>\n

The century\u2019s technology manifests itself twofold, on both sides of the camera. In one reference to the decade\u2019s new machinery, a bright-lipped young model\u2019s face is pulled back like plastic. Perhaps less obviously, in one editorial Chlo\u00eb Sevigny plays a troubled celebrity, showing the voyeuristic quality the camera (especially the digital camera) brought to magazines. One tabloid-like photograph actually shows Sevigny solemnly reading a tabloid article about herself.<\/p>\n

Some of the photographs are nearly as cartoonish and abstract as their 144-year-old predecessors. In one, red lips float against a night sky; in another, Stephanie Seymour is rendered in Warholian bubble-gum hues. A pretty blonde\u2019s slender back looks just as anonymous as the long-necked, hand-drawn women who posed in their mantelets<\/a> at Bazaar<\/em>\u2019s inception.<\/p>\n

The original mission statement of the magazine reads<\/p>\n

\n

A Bazaar, in Oriental parlance, is not a vulgar marketplace for the sale of fish, flesh and fowl, but a vast repository for all the rare and costly things of earth\u2013silk, velvets, cashmeres, spices, perfumes, and glittering gems; in a word, whatever can comfort the heart and delight the eye is found heaped up there in bewildering profusion. Such a repository we wish Harper\u2019s Bazar to be.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Tim Walker, Untitled (Harper\u2019s Bazaar<\/em>, October 2009).<\/p><\/div>\n

The exhibition makes a case for Bazaar<\/em>\u2019s place in the magazine world as a home for the fantasy and romanticism of an earlier era. (Perhaps this explains why the median age of the Bazaar<\/em> reader towers almost a decade above those of Vogue<\/em> and Elle<\/em>.) Echoes of Bazaar<\/em>\u2019s days as a breaking fashion news source resonate in Marc Jacob\u2019s hour-by-hour fashion diary; its past as \u201cthe vast repository\u201d for the rare and costly is no more apparent than in a leather-clad Naomi Campbell riding a crocodile. One leaves wondering what whimsical names a nineteenth-century editor might have bestowed on the black, snarly hairstyles of a Tim Burton\u2013inspired shoot or on Lady Gaga\u2019s cotton-candy colored blowout. The \u201cfleur de lis coiffure of braids\u201d may look ridiculous to us now, but in a few months (or moments) it will probably be on Lady Gaga\u2019s head. The word fashion<\/em> may derive from the root for invent<\/em>, but after nearly a century and a half of the magazine, its silhouette hasn\u2019t changed much.<\/p>\n

<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/em>

Patrick Demarchelier, Man Ray\u2019s floating lips (Harper\u2019s Bazaar<\/em>, February 2002).<\/p><\/div>\n

Ali Pechman is a writer living in Chicago.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It\u2019s easy to overlook that Vogue, seemingly eponymous with the word fashion, debuted after Harper\u2019s Bazaar, America\u2019s first fashion magazine. Steeped longer in the Victorianism that defined the nineteenth century, Bazaar set about cataloguing the changes that an era of colonialism and industrialization brought to women\u2019s dress. The original weekly (titled Harper\u2019s Bazar) saw its […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":217,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1580],"tags":[922,4073,4080,4078,4067,538,4074,4068,107,4079,4071,4069,2168,4070,4075,4077,4076,4072,3791],"class_list":["post-21355","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fashion-style","tag-andy-warhol","tag-bismarck","tag-chloe-sevigny","tag-chuck-close","tag-elle","tag-fashion","tag-glenda-bailey","tag-harpers-bazaar","tag-international-center-of-photography","tag-jane-seymour","tag-lady-gaga","tag-marc-jacob","tag-nan-goldin","tag-naomi-campbell","tag-patrick-demarchelier","tag-peter-lindbergh","tag-terry-richardson","tag-tim-burton","tag-vogue"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nAt the Bazaar by Alexandra Pechman<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"September 26, 2011 \u2013 It\u2019s easy to overlook that Vogue, seemingly eponymous with the word fashion, debuted after Harper\u2019s Bazaar, America\u2019s first fashion magazine. 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