{"id":20878,"date":"2011-09-15T15:00:42","date_gmt":"2011-09-15T19:00:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=20878"},"modified":"2011-09-15T17:38:36","modified_gmt":"2011-09-15T21:38:36","slug":"the-gilded-age","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2011\/09\/15\/the-gilded-age\/","title":{"rendered":"The Gilded Age"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\u201cYes, there\u2019s an elevator,\u201d a worried guest was assured on Tuesday night in the lobby of the Ace Hotel. This was no small concern. The event she was on hand to attend, cohosted by Ari Seth Cohen and Tavi Gevinson, was located in the basement. And the crowd was largely over eighty.<\/p>\n

The evening was a celebration of Ari Seth Cohen\u2019s street-style blog, Advanced Style<\/a>. As the name suggests, the ladies of the silver-haired set are Cohen\u2019s muses; the site contains a mix of known fashion royalty, like Iris Apfel and Beatrix Ost, and strangers whose dashing ensembles catch the photographer\u2019s eye. It was both disconcerting and wonderful to see the parade of extravagantly dressed grandes dames enter the aggressively hip Ace, which had been rendered especially youthful by the descent of New York Fashion Week attendees.<\/p>\n

Fashion Week parties, as anyone can tell you, are largely about exclusion: lists, velvet ropes, and stony-faced, implacable bouncers. This one was no different, but instead of models and actresses, the women being ushered to the head of the line and pursued by photographers were white-haired, turbaned, and carrying canes. Periodically, organizers scanned the crowded hotel lobby: when they spotted a hat or a caftan, the old lady in question was whisked ceremoniously downstairs to Liberty Hall.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

On the walls of the hallway leading to the party were examples of Cohen\u2019s work: labeled portraits of women he\u2019s immortalized. Some of those pictured are eccentric, some highly fashionable; others are in classic Chanel. The only generalization one can make about his subjects is that they\u2019re over sixty-five. If this lumping-together risks coming off as patronizing, such fears are soon put to rest: for one thing, the fashion on display is special enough to deserve its own niche. For another, the young photographer has evident respect for his subjects.<\/p>\n

\u201cI adore Ari,\u201d said one lady in a cape and turban. \u201cHe\u2019s a darling.\u201d<\/p>\n

The clothes on display were, as one might expect, remarkable. There were robes. There were gloves. There were evening gowns. And, naturally, there were hats galore. Much posing, but precious little posturing. The ladies held court on couches and soft chairs in the sepia-toned confines of Liberty Hall while Big Band music played softly in the background. Fashion bloggers and scenesters clustered around them, hung on their every word, rushed to get them drinks. (\u201cI thought there would be canap\u00e9s,\u201d remarked one guest in a seersucker suit.)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s wonderful that people are so interested,\u201d observed one lady, who had accessorized with heart-shaped Lolita glasses and a marionette, which danced gaily on her knee.<\/p>\n

Tavi, the fifteen-year-old fashion sensation and founder of RookieMag<\/a>, sported a tiara and perched on a couch beside the ever-regal Ms. Apfel. Her father, Steve, served as something of a generational bridge.<\/p>\n

Many guests commented on the unusually relaxed atmosphere of the event. \u201cThere was no pressure to dress up, really, because I knew the focus wouldn\u2019t be on anyone my age,\u201d said a chic-looking woman in her twenties. And, \u201cI haven\u2019t seen a single fashion bootie,\u201d added her companion.<\/p>\n

Not everyone was charmed. \u201cThis is macabre,\u201d commented one young man grimly.<\/p>\n

Later, there was a three-tiered cake and a rousing chorus of \u201cHappy Birthday\u201d for two subjects turning one hundred. They briefly ran out of forks but, as a woman with scarlet hair informed me, \u201cvery rich people in England eat with their hands.\u201d One youthful attendee wondered aloud if she\u2019d choose to usher in a hundred years surrounded by fashionable strangers; upon reflection, she decided that she would. Then, a performance: cabaret stylings by ninety-one-year-old Ilona Smithkin, resplendent in false eyelashes, the highlight of which was a rendition of \u201cFalling in Love Again\u201d in both German and English. (\u201cI can\u2019t hear anything!\u201d one guest complained loudly.)<\/p>\n

As the evening went on, the crowds grew: upstairs, a line formed around the block. We were, it was rumored, at \u201ccapacity.\u201d The room grew warm. The noise level rose. There was something of an exodus by the over-eighty set, and a queue formed at the aforementioned elevator. \u201cIt\u2019s too loud,\u201d explained one woman with a camellia in her hair. \u201cAnd I\u2019m tired. But for one night, it was worth it.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201cYes, there\u2019s an elevator,\u201d a worried guest was assured on Tuesday night in the lobby of the Ace Hotel. This was no small concern. The event she was on hand to attend, cohosted by Ari Seth Cohen and Tavi Gevinson, was located in the basement. And the crowd was largely over eighty. The evening was […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":178,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1580],"tags":[3901,3897,3895,3906,3902,3898,3904,3905,3900,3896,3903,3907],"class_list":["post-20878","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fashion-style","tag-ace-hotel","tag-advanced-style","tag-ari-seth-cohen","tag-beatrix-ost","tag-big-band","tag-elaine-stritch","tag-falling-in-love-again","tag-ilona-smithkin","tag-liberty-hall","tag-new-york-fashion-week","tag-rookiemag","tag-tavi-gevinson"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Gilded Age by Sadie Stein<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"September 15, 2011 \u2013 \u201cYes, there\u2019s an elevator,\u201d a worried guest was assured on Tuesday night in the lobby of the Ace Hotel. This was no small concern. 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