{"id":20099,"date":"2011-08-29T15:17:32","date_gmt":"2011-08-29T19:17:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=20099"},"modified":"2011-08-29T17:54:11","modified_gmt":"2011-08-29T21:54:11","slug":"chez-panisse-menus","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2011\/08\/29\/chez-panisse-menus\/","title":{"rendered":"Chez Panisse Menus"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/Bastille21.jpg\"><\/a><a href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/Magnolia_art.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-20120\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/Magnolia_art.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"574\" height=\"845\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/Magnolia_art.jpg 574w, https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/Magnolia_art-203x300.jpg 203w\" sizes=\"auto, (min-width: 62.5em) 67vw, 100vw\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>This weekend marked the fortieth anniversary of Alice Waters\u2019s Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California.\u00a0I was swept into the adventure of the restaurant almost at its inception; though I had no restaurant experience, I was recruited to fill in for someone who didn\u2019t show up for work.\u00a0Alice is a dedicated Francophile, and early on she wrote out each nightly menu, in French, in her elegant calligraphy. Eventually, her devotion to France was replaced with the appreciation of California\u2019s food and culture, and the names of growers, producers, and ingredients took prominence on the menus. Over the years, many Bay Area designers, poets, writers, calligraphers, and printers have placed their stamp on the Chez Panisse menus. I\u2019m lucky to have been one of them.\u00a0<!--more--><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-20113\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/Bastille21.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"574\" height=\"825\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/Bastille21.jpg 574w, https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/Bastille21-208x300.jpg 208w\" sizes=\"auto, (min-width: 62.5em) 67vw, 100vw\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">The Grand A\u00efoli has become a tradition at Chez Panisse. It is a Proven\u00e7al free-for-all feast of bowls of garlic mayonnaise with platters of summer vegetables, grilled bread, fish, and shellfish, and plenty of chilled ros\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/Bastille96.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-20114\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/Bastille96.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"574\" height=\"550\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/Bastille96.jpg 574w, https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/Bastille96-300x287.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (min-width: 62.5em) 67vw, 100vw\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">I wanted this menu to look like a decorative plate. Ingredients of the spicy shrimp soup form the elements of the image.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DKennedy.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-20115\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DKennedy.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"574\" height=\"682\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DKennedy.jpg 574w, https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/DKennedy-252x300.jpg 252w\" sizes=\"auto, (min-width: 62.5em) 67vw, 100vw\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>I planned this menu with an image of a prickly pear cactus for Diana Kennedy, an authority on the regional cooking of Mexico, but Diana never made it to the dinner. About an hour before service, the Loma Prieta earthquake struck the Bay Area, and part of the Bay Bridge collapsed, making travel impossible from San Francisco, where she was staying.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/marriageart.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-20116\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/marriageart.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"574\" height=\"802\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/marriageart.jpg 574w, https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/08\/marriageart-214x300.jpg 214w\" sizes=\"auto, (min-width: 62.5em) 67vw, 100vw\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>My longtime colleague Fritz Streiff, a host in the caf\u00e9 for many years, and his partner Jeff were married in California two days before the 2008 election that made same-sex marriage illegal in the state. It was fall, and the persimmons were turning colors on the branches. On my morning walk I was seeing lots of red wing blackbirds. Only the males have the intense red patch and yellow stripe on their wings, so I put a pair of males on a persimmon branch.<\/p>\n<p><em>Patricia Curtan is an artist, designer, and printmaker. Her book, <\/em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Menus-Chez-Panisse-Patricia-Curtan\/dp\/1616890290\">Menus for Chez Panisse<\/a><em>, collects four decades of menus printed for the restaurant.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This weekend marked the fortieth anniversary of Alice Waters\u2019s Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California.\u00a0I was swept into the adventure of the restaurant almost at its inception; though I had no restaurant experience, I was recruited to fill in for someone who didn\u2019t show up for work.\u00a0Alice is a dedicated Francophile, and early on she wrote [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":229,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2384],"tags":[3564,3565,3561,3567,1652,3563,3568,3566,3569,3570,3562],"class_list":["post-20099","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-look","tag-alice-waters","tag-blackbirds","tag-chez-panisse","tag-diana-kennedy","tag-earthquake","tag-letterpress","tag-loma-prieta","tag-persimmon","tag-shrimp-soup","tag-the-grand-aioli","tag-woodcut"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.4 (Yoast SEO v25.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Chez Panisse Menus by Patricia Curtan<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"August 29, 2011 \u2013 This weekend marked the fortieth anniversary of Alice Waters\u2019s Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California.\u00a0I was swept 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