{"id":18695,"date":"2011-07-28T11:50:14","date_gmt":"2011-07-28T15:50:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=18695"},"modified":"2011-07-29T21:19:08","modified_gmt":"2011-07-30T01:19:08","slug":"stiegs-stockholm","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2011\/07\/28\/stiegs-stockholm\/","title":{"rendered":"Stieg’s Stockholm"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

This spring, exiting the Stockholm-Arlanda airport, I found myself in a hall which enthusiastically proclaimed, \u201cWelcome to Sweden!\u201d From its walls, huge portraits of the country\u2019s greatest cultural exports greeted me, head shot after head shot. There were actors and directors (Greta Garbo, Ingrid Bergman, Ingmar Bergman), austere portraits of authors (Astrid Lindgren, August Strindberg), and, in 1970s color, ABBA under disco lights, and Bjorn Borg, whacking a tennis ball. At the end of this procession, as if its grand finale, was a full-body photograph of Stieg Larsson. His head rested on his hand, in a position not unlike that of Rodin\u2019s thinker. It\u2019s a familiar photograph, the same one that appears on the back of each of his books: The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo<\/em><\/a>, The Girl Who Played with Fire<\/em><\/a>, and The Girl Who Kicked the Hornet\u2019s Nest<\/em><\/a>.<\/p>\n

The Millennium trilogy, as the three are called, has sold more than fifty-one million copies worldwide. Larsson, who died in 2004 of a heart attack, at the age of fifty, never saw the success of his fiction, which he wrote mostly on the side. For him, the books were \u201clike therapy,\u201d his partner Eva Gabrielsson writes in her memoir \u2018There Are Things I Want You to Know\u2019 About Stieg Larsson and Me<\/a><\/em>. \u201cHe was describing Sweden the way it was and the way he saw the country: the scandals, the oppression of women, the friends he cherished and wished to honor.\u201d The thrillers show the seamy underbelly of Stockholm, a hellhole of conspiracies, shady corporations, corrupt police, and two unlikely heroes: accidental stud and crusading journalist Mikael Blomkvist and the bisexual punk computer hacker Lisbeth Salander, the titular \u201cgirl\u201d of the series.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s fair to say that a certain view of Stockholm has been shaped by Larsson\u2019s books. He had a meticulous eye for detail (which made his books either plodding, according to some reviewers, or \u201cdocumentary-like,\u201d according to fans), and he used that detail to color in the lives of his characters with real locations across Stockholm and Sweden. (This includes IKEA.) Stockholm City Museum has capitalized on Dragon Tattoo<\/em> mania with Millenniumtour, a weekly walking tour of locations that appear in Larsson\u2019s world. They also feature an exhibit of props from the films (the first of the English remakes is slated to come out this December), which means that you can go into a room filled with mock-ups of Millennium<\/em> issues and Aftonbladet<\/em> newspapers, all featuring Noomi Rapace\u2019s Lisbeth glare, and sit behind the desk and pretend that you\u2019re Blomkvist, if only for a moment. The tour has proven so popular that\u00a0the museum has added a second option, the ABBA City Walk Tour.<\/p>\n

On a recent trip to Stockholm, my seventy-two-year-old father (an avowed fan, whose acquisition of the UK edition of Hornet\u2019s Nest<\/em> a month before the US release, was a point of pride) and I (somewhat more skeptical) decided to take the tour. We started at Blomkvist\u2019s apartment, Bellmansgatan 1, a brick building from the 1700s with Gothic spires, situated at the subterranean end of a cobblestone street. The elevated sidewalk and walkway cast deep shadows onto the facade. Our tour guide, Elisabeth Daude, a Hitchcock blonde dressed in black, explained the trilogy\u2019s literary links to Astrid Lindgren, the famous children\u2019s book author. Lisbeth Salander, of course, is a grown-up version of Lindgren\u2019s Pippi Longstocking: Pippi \u201chas a heart of gold, does good, but she doesn\u2019t always know how to behave in society. It\u2019s the same with Lisbeth.\u201d Mikael, on the other hand, Daude pegged as reminiscent of Lindren\u2019s Bill Bergstrom, a boy detective who, in the Swedish version, is named Kalle Blomkvist. \u201cHe was the investigative guy, the Mr. Do-good nice guy, everybody likes him,\u201d said Daude. \u201cAnd he grew up to become Mikael Blomkvist.\u201d<\/p>\n

Over the years, Bellmansgatan 1 has become Stockholm\u2019s equivalent of Carrie Bradshaw\u2019s brownstone, attracting hordes of tourists who wait around as if Blomkvist himself might appear.\u2028 We didn\u2019t linger, however, but moved on, a mass of tourists in tennis shoes.\u00a0Down the hill and up a small side street, Tavastgatan, we paused in front of a restaurant, Tabouli\u2014formerly Samir\u2014a frequent haunt of both Blomkvist and Larsson. Larsson was a feminist and fervent socialist; during the nineties, he worked as an investigative journalist, writing about extremist movements. Much of this work was through the political magazine Expo<\/em>, where he was the editor in chief. (In his fiction, Expo<\/em> would become Millenium<\/em> magazine, Blomkvist\u2019s employer.) Larsson also wrote science fiction, was an accomplished illustrator, and traveled to Africa the year after he finished his mandatory Swedish military service to teach female guerrilla fighters in Eritrea how to handle arms. The trip to Eritrea shaped the theme of female warriors in the third book, The Girl Who Kicked the Hornets Nest<\/em>.<\/p>\n

Our tour passed to Mariatorget, a small, green city square. Daude pointed to the green park bench across the way, dirty and cracked with white graffiti. \u201cThe only public photo of Larsson, besides the one you\u2019ve all seen, is him sitting on that bench, in between two skinheads, from June 6, 2004. The man is not afraid. He wants to speak to these people.\u201d<\/p>\n

Larsson lived a clandestine life, out of necessity. He was a target of the right, facing death threats from the extremist groups that he profiled (bullets were sent to him in the mail). He and Gabrielsson never married, out of caution. Perhaps in the same spirit of secrecy, Daude omitted any details of where Larsson lived, only vaguely noting that it was on the Western side of Soder.<\/p>\n

A chilly rain began to fall. The final stop on the tour was Lisbeth\u2019s twenty-five-room penthouse on Fiskargatan 9. On the way up the hill, we passed Lisbeth\u2019s favorite store, the 7-11 on Gotgatan, where she stocked up on Billy\u2019s Pan Pizza. Lisbeth\u2019s house\u2014bought from money she hacked\u2014was in a beautiful yellow building that was nicknamed \u201cThe Scandal House\u201d in 1907 because, when it was built, it blocked the view of the church at the end of the block. The penthouse floor of the building is empty now, and no curtains hang in the windows. We\u2019re told it\u2019s actually a spare apartment for a wealthy man, who only uses it to watch the fireworks on New Year\u2019s Eve.<\/p>\n

Our tour was soon over. A Spaniard lingered, saying he came over on Ryan Air just for this experience. My father and I, however, were hungry, so we stopped in Lisbeth\u2019s 7-11 to buy a Swedish candy bar that oozed salted licorice. It was disgusting and delicious at the same time. Chomping slowly, I looked around the store, hoping to spot a real-life Larsson character, a grown-up Pippi or Kalle on a mission of vengeance, truth, and justice. But it was only us.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

This spring, exiting the Stockholm-Arlanda airport, I found myself in a hall which enthusiastically proclaimed, \u201cWelcome to Sweden!\u201d From its walls, huge portraits of the country\u2019s greatest cultural exports greeted me, head shot after head shot. There were actors and directors (Greta Garbo, Ingrid Bergman, Ingmar Bergman), austere portraits of authors (Astrid Lindgren, August Strindberg), […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":215,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[419],"tags":[2987,2993,2992,1395,2991,2984,2994,2995,2986,2983,2985,1492,2982,2988,2989,2990],"class_list":["post-18695","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-arts-culture","tag-7-11","tag-astrid-lindgren","tag-bill-bergstrom","tag-book-tour","tag-expo","tag-kalle-blomkvist","tag-lisbeth-salander","tag-mikael-blomkvist","tag-millenium-trilogy","tag-pippi-longstocking","tag-stieg-larsson","tag-stockholm","tag-sweden","tag-the-girl-who-kicked-the-hornets-nest","tag-the-girl-who-played-with-fire","tag-the-girl-with-the-dragon-tattoo"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nStieg's Stockholm by Elisabeth 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