{"id":16780,"date":"2011-06-09T11:30:55","date_gmt":"2011-06-09T15:30:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=16780"},"modified":"2011-06-09T12:54:03","modified_gmt":"2011-06-09T16:54:03","slug":"tailor-made","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2011\/06\/09\/tailor-made\/","title":{"rendered":"Tailor-Made"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"

Richard Anderson.<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\u201cWanted,\u201d the advertisement read, \u201csixteen- or seventeen-year-old apprentice cutter for Savile Row firm. Energetic \u2026 Intelligent \u2026 Smart appearance \u2026\u201d I was skeptical (what the hell was a cutter?) but Dad made the call and we were granted an appointment at ten the following Tuesday. I had never heard of Huntsman before. For that matter, I am not sure that I had ever heard of Savile Row.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

So began, somewhat ignominiously, Richard Anderson\u2019s career as a bespoke tailor. Today, Anderson is \u201cThe King of Savile Row,\u201d as The Independent<\/em> called him\u2014but in 1982 he was a teenager with failing grades who showed up for an interview in white socks, a short-sleeved shirt, and a school blazer.<\/p>\n

Anderson\u2019s memoir, Bespoke: Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed<\/a><\/em>, has been called the Kitchen Confidential<\/a><\/em> of the tailoring world, an insider\u2019s look at the industry and one that exposes a certain amount of its foibles and eccentricity. But what\u2019s even more of a revelation than the ins and outs of cutting and fitting is the sheer thoroughness of the traditional apprenticeship, which Anderson served. Even thirty years ago when Anderson got his start, the kind of ground-up dues paying he describes was on the wane; in an era of overnight success, it\u2019s almost unimaginable.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s no shock that, since everything\u2019s ripe for the TV picking, even Savile Row got its own BBC special<\/a>\u2014a reality program that made it look, says Anderson, \u201cquite glamorous.\u201d And as a result, he now gets some ten or fifteen letters a weeks from prospective employees. However, their notion of apprenticeship doesn\u2019t involve sweeping or cutting, let alone the kind of respect for institutional authority that was the backbone of Anderson\u2019s training. \u201cThey tend to think they\u2019d quite enjoy designing,\u201d Anderson explains dryly, adding that they also tend to be older and \u201cthere\u2019s a big difference between a seventeen-year-old kid just out of school and a twenty-something who\u2019s seen a bit of the world.\u201d Especially one in today\u2019s England, he need not add.<\/p>\n

By contrast, Anderson describes a world in which \u201cYoung Richard\u201d started as the lowest of the lowly, serving a series of rotations, dealing with a series of autocratic characters, including \u201cthe formidably debonair Colin Hammick, fellow chain smoker and grumpy eccentric Brian Hall, and Dick Lakey, the company’s heroically overworked \u201cleg man,\u201d and spending years absorbing information before he was allowed to put shears to cloth, let alone interact with Huntsman\u2019s clientele of lords, earls, and film stars. But for all its rigors, Anderson loved the profession: he says the fast-paced, physical, hypermasculine environment, and the structure, were a perfect fit for a young man\u2019s energies\u2014even if it was a brand of machismo that centered around sewing.<\/p>\n

Bespoke, to the uninitiated, means something that\u2019s made from scratch: literally, \u201cspoken for\u201d by the client. He (and it\u2019s usually a he) chooses the fabric, decides on the lapel width, the sleeve length, and the trouser cut, and submits to more than twenty measurements and half a dozen fittings before a garment\u2019s done. (Made-to-measure, by contrast, works from a set pattern; a bespoke one is made for your body.) A typical suit runs several thousand pounds; a costly fabric can cost much more than that.<\/p>\n

Anderson went on to become the youngest Master Cutter in Huntsman\u2019s one-hundred-and-fifty-year history, and even after he broke out on his own, maintains that house\u2019s signature high-armed, long-skirted cut. Of that break, which shook Savile Row to its staid foundations, he writes eloquently: it might be called the dramatic high point of the memoir. After Huntsman\u2019s was bought out, he and his colleagues mounted what Anderson describes essentially as a battle for the house\u2019s soul\u2014and leaving with partner Brian Lishak was not an easy choice. \u201cIt was unbearable,\u201d he says of watching standards decline at Huntsman\u2019s. \u201cBrian and I knew we had to go. And so, in the second week of November 2000, a day after my thirty-sixth birthday and nineteen years after setting foot at 11 Savile Row for the first time, I resigned.\u201d The rupture did not go unremarked. \u201cThere\u2019s bad feeling between Richard Anderson, the first new bespoke tailors to open in Savile Row for three decades or so, and rival Huntsman, two doors down,\u201d reported The Daily Telegraph<\/em> in 2001.<\/p>\n

Anderson, incidentally, might be called \u201cmore Huntsman than Huntsman\u201d these days\u2014but his success lies at least partially in an ability to attract a younger clientele. Aesthetically, he lightened things up: his new atelier was airy and bright, in stark contrast to the accepted Savile Row decorating scheme of dark tweeds, dark woods, and dark-visaged taxidermy. And rather than have his cutters toil below stairs or in back rooms, Anderson brought them into the main space. He was also, from the get-go, open to experimenting with fabric beyond the traditional, turning out velvet suits and check overcoats for new clientele. \u201cIt\u2019s maybe a bit less intimidating,\u201d he concedes.<\/p>\n

His manner, too, is engaging: a far cry from the often dour cutters of legend, Anderson (whom I met on one of his periodic New York stays, at which he sets up shop at the Carlyle Hotel) is less discursive than on the page. (He was, of course, attired in a strikingly beautiful suit: a wide pinstripe with a moderate lapel that proclaimed its craftsmanship with every line.) While most of the work of fitting takes place in the bedroom\u2014Anderson excused himself at one point to attend to a well-known restaurateur\u2014 the sitting room was scattered with bolts of fabrics, including a blue check that would make Patrick MacDonald swoon.<\/p>\n

If you\u2019re hoping to hear gossip about Benicio del Toro\u2019s inseam, or Hugh Laurie\u2019s lapel preference, whether Kiefer Sutherland dresses left or right, I\u2019m afraid you\u2019ll have to look elsewhere: about his clientele Anderson is circumspect. Which trust is surely part of a bespoke tailor\u2019s complicated job description\u2014even if some of us would like to hear about dotty lords with dogs in tow demanding tartan suits. Never fear, however\u2014his years at Huntsman yield anecdotes of the vitriolic, unpredictable Rex Harrison sporting vicuna and keeping the staff on the hop and an exacting Katherine Hepburn, who insisted on trousers so wide they\u2019d \u201cflap in the breeze like sails.\u201d (One of the few breaks with sartorial convention the imperious cutter tolerated.)<\/p>\n

As one might expect of an industry largely dependent on the vagaries of \u201cThe City,\u201d business took a major hit in the past five years. \u201cThe day Lehman Brothers crashed,\u201d he says now, \u201ceverything changed. It was that sudden.\u201d And then, \u201ca year to the day,\u201d they rebounded. \u201cSuddenly, people wanted three suits.\u201d Business has not yet reached prerecession heights, but it\u2019s getting there\u2014and on this trip alone, Anderson had acquired a dozen new clients. \u201cPeople are realizing,\u201d explains Anderson, \u201cthat you can spend four or five thousand on a suit off the peg\u2014no less than the cost of bespoke\u2014but there\u2019s no comparison in fit, or wear.\u201d That said, Recession styles are holding fast. \u201cDuring a recession, everything gets more conservative,\u201d explains Anderson. \u201cLapels get thinner, pants get smaller.\u201d And lapels, to those who\u2019d care to analyze the suit index, are thinner than ever. But \u201csome of that\u2019s down to Mad Men<\/em>.\u201d<\/p>\n

And even if the old hierarchies of apprenticeship are a thing of the past, there are still those invested in learning the craft. One such is Anderson\u2019s assistant, who, as both a young woman and an Australian, defies traditional stereotypes. There\u2019s also Anderson\u2019s younger son, who has already expressed an interest in the family business\u2014although at thirteen, he certainly has time to change his mind. As for Anderson\u2019s older son, his interests are primarily \u201csoccer and girls\u201d at the moment\u2014although he did take advantage of his father\u2019s expertise to tailor his school suit to perfection.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201cWanted,\u201d the advertisement read, \u201csixteen- or seventeen-year-old apprentice cutter for Savile Row firm. Energetic \u2026 Intelligent \u2026 Smart appearance \u2026\u201d I was skeptical (what the hell was a cutter?) but Dad made the call and we were granted an appointment at ten the following Tuesday. I had never heard of Huntsman before. For that matter, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":178,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1580],"tags":[2516,2515,2518,2513,216,2517,1050,635,2499,2500,2514,2501],"class_list":["post-16780","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fashion-style","tag-apprentice","tag-bespoke","tag-carlyle-hotel","tag-clothing","tag-design","tag-huntsman","tag-london","tag-memoir","tag-richard-anderson","tag-savile-row","tag-suits","tag-tailor"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nTailor-Made by Sadie Stein<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"June 9, 2011 \u2013 \u201cWanted,\u201d the advertisement read, \u201csixteen- or seventeen-year-old apprentice cutter for Savile Row firm. 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