{"id":164922,"date":"2023-07-18T12:51:23","date_gmt":"2023-07-18T16:51:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=164922"},"modified":"2024-11-15T15:24:57","modified_gmt":"2024-11-15T20:24:57","slug":"the-final-dead-shows-part-two","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2023\/07\/18\/the-final-dead-shows-part-two\/","title":{"rendered":"The Final Dead Shows: Part Two"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"

A very cool van. Photographs by Sophie Haigney.<\/p><\/div>\n

We went to the lot. The lot, my younger brother observed\u2014he was a first-time Dead & Co. show attendee\u2014was \u201cliterally just a parking lot.\u201d In fact it was a parking lot adjacent to the Port of San Francisco and near the SFPD headquarters, where I used to go for press conferences when I was a crime reporter. It was a vast parking lot, not far from the stadium where the second-to-last Dead & Co. show was going to start in two hours, and it was full of Deadheads.<\/p>\n

The lot is the scene outside every show, known colloquially as Shakedown Street. It\u2019s more or less an open-air drug market, that phrase that gets thrown around a lot to describe other parts of San Francisco; it is also the locus of the vestiges of real hippie culture. There is nothing like it anywhere else. There are vans that have been on the road for months, vans painted with psychedelic mushrooms, vans covered in stickers that say \u201cMake America Grateful Again\u201d and \u201cThank you Bobby.\u201d People sell T-shirts, an endless array of T-shirts in every imaginable version of tie-dye. People sell quesadillas. People sell nitrous oxide\u2014lots of it; in fact, the unmistakable hiss of nitrous and the constant popping of balloons is one of the most disconcerting features of being outside a Dead show. People sell funny hats. People sell, confusingly, a lot of rocks. I saw a sign next to a big box of rocks that said BUY 1 GET 1 FREE<\/small>.<\/p>\n

Being on the lot is basically just about wandering around and looking at stuff, so that\u2019s what we did. One of my friends wanted to get a new Online Ceramics Dead T-shirt; another one wanted to buy a tiny ceramic mushroom to hold during the concert. My brother and I weaved in and out of some stalls, looking at shirts and stickers that said things like \u201cNot like other girls\u201d and \u201c5-8-1977 was an inside job.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cThere was this apple last night that I was eating and I couldn\u2019t stop eating it, I even ground up the seeds and then I think I was worried that I had arsenic in my body, so I got a bit disturbed during \u2018Space,\u2019\u00a0\u201d I heard one guy telling his friend, bent over a camping stove where he was frying some onions and nursing a beer.<\/p>\n

I waited in line for a porta-potty, but the man in front of me came out and said, \u201cThat\u2019s really bad \u2026 really not good for women.\u201d So I did not go in. Another guy assured his friend, in a thick Boston accent, \u201cYou could piss in there bro.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cTime to go see my FIRST husband,\u201d yelled a woman in a long tie-dye dress who looked like she was twenty-five.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"

The lot, which is a parking lot.<\/p><\/div>\n

Someone nearby was shaking a tambourine.<\/p>\n

\u201cYou\u2019re so fucking cool, man,\u201d said an older hippie to a young woman he was splitting a watermelon with. \u201cYou should keep this.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cNo way,\u201d she said. \u201cYou never know when you\u2019re gonna need a watermelon.\u201d They exchanged Facebook information.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe have enough acid to kill an elephant,\u201d a tall guy in a \u201cJack Straw\u201d shirt reassured his buddy, who had been worried that they\u2019d need to get more.<\/p>\n

I shared my location with my aunt, who was also supposed to be at the show that night; she and I are always trying and failing to meet up at Dead shows, because it is very hard to meet up in a crowd of forty thousand people. It\u2019s often all you can do not to lose your friends. In fact I had lost track of my brother, so I texted him \u201cYou good?\u201d and he hearted the message. He was on his own journey now.<\/p>\n

I marveled at some T-shirts. \u201cThe thing that sucks is I always want to buy a Dead shirt at a show, but then I\u2019m already wearing a Dead shirt, so it\u2019s not a good time to buy a Dead shirt,\u201d someone said, and I agreed.<\/p>\n

My friend was not having much luck finding her tiny ceramic mushroom. \u201cYou would think this would be the perfect market for tiny ceramic mushrooms,\u201d our other friend lamented with her.<\/p>\n

\u201cThey\u2019re giving away free hot dogs on wook beach,\u201d another friend texted, referring to the strip of rocks off the lot that extended into the bay. (Wook<\/em>, if you\u2019re not familiar, is a derogatory term that derives from the Star Wars<\/em> movies and refers to dirty long-haired guys who follow jam bands around. We love wooks.) I went down to wook beach, though I declined the hot dog.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"

Wook beach.<\/p><\/div>\n

It was really the most beautiful place in the world. San Francisco, where I am from, is a breathtakingly beautiful city, and it was at its best that day, cool and sunny down by the water. San Francisco is where it all began\u2014the Dead, of course, in 1965, and also my own life, thirty years later. I thought about this while I sunned myself on the rocks with my friends, and started to get a little sentimental, but then it was time to go to the show.<\/p>\n

There was a massive bottleneck on the way into the stadium, people coming from all directions and trying to form a line and squeezing up against each other. \u201cIf you walk sideways, you\u2019ll be half your size,\u201d someone observed, and we all tried walking sideways for a bit. All around us people were raising one finger in the air, which is the sign that means \u201cI need a miracle,\u201d or, one ticket to the show tonight. A girl with long armpit hair was holding up a sign that said, \u201cTired of smelling my stinky pits? Sell me your extra.\u201d<\/p>\n

My friends and I lost each other and then found each other again, near the gate. We waited for our last friend, who had texted to say she\u2019d fallen behind. When she caught up with us she was beaming. \u201cI found my tiny mushroom!\u201d She held up a translucent green mushroom about the size of a thimble, and she proceeded to hold it all night long, all through the show.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Sophie Haigney is the web editor of<\/em> The Paris Review. Read her third dispatch in the series,<\/em> “The Final Dead Shows: Part Three<\/a>,” here.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201cYou never know when you\u2019re gonna need a watermelon.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1345,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[68673],"tags":[14236,67827,9931],"class_list":["post-164922","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-overheard","tag-concerts","tag-featured","tag-the-grateful-dead"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Final Dead Shows: Part Two by Sophie Haigney<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"July 18, 2023 \u2013 \u201cYou never know when you\u2019re gonna need a watermelon.\u201d\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2023\/07\/18\/the-final-dead-shows-part-two\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" 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