{"id":162081,"date":"2022-10-19T11:43:27","date_gmt":"2022-10-19T15:43:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=162081"},"modified":"2022-10-19T13:19:14","modified_gmt":"2022-10-19T17:19:14","slug":"notes-from-iran","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2022\/10\/19\/notes-from-iran\/","title":{"rendered":"Notes from Iran"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"<\/a>

Iranian protesters on Keshavarz Boulevard<\/a> in Tehran. Licensed under CC0 4.0<\/a>.<\/p><\/div>\n

Before this September, I hadn\u2019t heard from Yara in months. They\u2019re an Iranian journalist who has reported for the country\u2019s most prominent newspapers and publications. We first met in New York in 2018 and bonded over the difficulties that come with reporting on Iran: they were rightly afraid of being arrested for their work, and I\u2019ve been afraid that I will no longer be able to return to the country where I was born due to writing about it from abroad. As the Islamic Republic began to escalate the crackdowns on journalists, activists, and civil society, Yara\u2014a pseudonym I\u2019m using to protect their identity\u2014was forced to leave Iran. But when their father was diagnosed with cancer, they had to return. They messaged me to say they were going back and let me know I likely wouldn\u2019t hear from them. If the authorities knew that Yara was communicating with me, an Iranian dual national who works for t<\/span><\/em>he<\/em> New York Times,<\/em><\/span> they could accuse them of conspiracy, spying, and a whole host of other nonsensical charges. I worried about Yara, but I knew their silence meant they were safe.\u00a0<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

In September, a twenty-two-year-old Kurdish woman named Mahsa Amini died after being detained in Tehran by the so-called Morality Police for breaking the \u201chijab rule.\u201d On Twitter, a photographer named Niloofar Hamedi posted a photo of Amini unconscious in a hospital bed, with tubes coming out of her mouth, a swollen face, and dried blood on her ears. Her image enraged Iranians and sparked mass demonstrations. The protests are now in their fifth week and have spread to more than eighty cities and towns. It\u2019s both the largest and most widespread uprising that the Islamic Republic has seen in its forty-three-year history. Many of us, familiar with the state\u2019s history of lethal crackdowns, were waiting nervously for them to begin. Arrests have already started, as have periodic internet shutoffs. Hamedi is now in <\/span>solitary confinement in Iran\u2019s notorious Evin Prison<\/span><\/a>.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

On <\/span>September 26<\/span>, during the <\/span>third<\/span> week of the protests, I finally heard from Yara. They had just been arrested and interrogated at the Ministry of Intelligence. \u201cThey will take me to jail for about two years due to my reports,\u201d Yara wrote. \u201cBut I am not scared, something like hope is rising among us, hope for changes, for women, life, freedom, for visiting you in Tehran soon.\u201d They said it may be a month or two until they have a court date and are sent to prison. In the meantime, they wanted to collaborate on another story. They sent me their notes and wrote, \u201cKeep our fingers crossed that the internet will work tomorrow.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Yara:<\/b><\/p>\n

In the days after her death, the state television network broadcasts a short, interrupted video of Mahsa Amini fainting in the detention center, trying to argue that she died of natural causes. Mahsa\u2019s father declares this news to be completely false; those who were with her in the Morality Police van testify that she was beaten while being transported to the Morality Police headquarters. Mahsa\u2019s brother says that the officer who arrested his sister had a camera, so videos from inside the Guidance Patrol van should be reviewed.<\/span><\/p>\n

The day after Mahsa\u2019s burial, people from other cities in Kurdistan come out in the streets to protest. On the very first day, three people, including a child, are killed as a result of direct fire from the repression forces. The cities of Kurdistan go on strike.<\/span><\/p>\n

At various universities, from the North to the South, students have launched massive demonstrations. They chant: \u201cWe neither want a king, nor a rahbar<\/em> (the supreme leader); down with every oppressor.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Female activists call for a rally on Keshavarz Boulevard. The second day of the demonstration is a scene of confrontations between several thousand people and the riot police. The first line of protesters are women and men, hand in hand in front of the special guards. Girls are burning their hijabs amid cheering protesters. Shortly after, the guards drive the protesters to the streets around the boulevard with tear gas, batons, and stun guns. The cats of Laleh Park on Keshavarz Boulevard have been attacked by so much tear gas that their eyes won\u2019t open. The old woman who comes every week to feed them has unknowingly shown up and can\u2019t find her cats.<\/span><\/p>\n

***<\/span><\/p>\n

Protests enter their second week. <\/span>I\u2019m waiting on the street for the taxi to arrive when I see an old religious man coming towards me. At first, I\u2019m afraid he wants to mention<\/span>\u00a0I\u2019m not wearing a<\/span> hijab. All of a sudden, he brings his phone in front of me and shows me Mahsa Amini\u2019s photo, saying, \u201cCan you believe it, ma\u2019am? They killed someone\u2019s daughter. I myself have a daughter. I swear to God, I haven\u2019t slept for a week.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

They say this is the women\u2019s revolution. Maryam, who is on the street every day and has been attacked by so much tear gas that her eyes are swollen, says, No matter what, let\u2019s see each other at Caf\u00e9 Haft. We hear that Abbas is missing. Two days later, we find out that he has been arrested. They have arrested Roghiyeh\u2019s and Maryam\u2019s friends too. I have no way of communicating with <\/span>the world outside of Iran. <\/span>The internet is down and no VPN is working.<\/span><\/p>\n

Maryam comes to the caf\u00e9 one hour late. She says they are arresting journalists one by one. Fatemeh Rajabi has been taken into custody. Elaheh Mohammadi\u2019s house has been raided and her belongings taken away. Elaheh, who went to Saqqez to cover Mahsa\u2019s funeral, has also been arrested.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

There is a full military curfew in Kermanshah and Mashhad, and Qasem Soleimani\u2019s banners have been set on fire in his hometown. My friends tell me about the scenes in the streets: the young girls who try to block the officers by dragging a trash can into the middle of the street, the women who neutralize the effects of tear gas by setting their headscarves on fire with alcohol, the drivers who create traffic to block the officers and frustrate them by continuously beeping their horns. Where have they learned these things? Courage is contagious. An old woman says to one of the guards, \u201cI\u2019m your mother; don\u2019t hit me.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Elham says that on the first day, she and her friends were stuck in the boulevard and the officers were attacking them with stun guns. On the second day, four of them were hit with paintballs and still went back to the street with their bruised bodies. They have gone to the street every day since last Thursday, and now it\u2019s Friday; every day with bruised bodies, painful feet, and empty hands, protesting against the mandatory hijab, against their lost rights. She says, \u201cThey don\u2019t want us and we don\u2019t want them either.\u201d She says she is waiting for the day when she can dance in the streets. Honestly, me too.<\/span><\/p>\n

***<\/b><\/p>\n

It\u2019s Saturday night. The ninth day of protests. Right now, as I\u2019m writing this, I can hear shouts of \u201cdeath to the dictator\u201d from outside. The slogans have also changed\u2014from \u201cDon\u2019t be afraid! Don\u2019t be afraid! We\u2019re all in this together!\u201d to \u201cBe afraid! Be afraid! We\u2019re all in this together.\u201d They pour burned oil on the streets so the police will slip and fall. In response, the police have torn up and taken license plates from the cars of many protesters.<\/span><\/p>\n

There are more and more arrests. The names of five arrested lawyers are announced. One of them is the lawyer of three arrested youths who were sentenced to death during protests in January. Yalda Moaiery, the photographer who took a<\/span> famous photo of the Bloody Aban protests<\/span><\/a>, is also arrested. <\/span>Those protests began in late 2017 and lasted until January 2018\u2014initially they were focused on economic grievances like the plummeting value of the Iranian Rial, overall unemployment, and lack of job prospects for Iranians, but they later expanded to call for a downfall of the entire system. Moaiery<\/span> is in Qarchak Prison. She has said that they are forcibly giving tranquilizers to the prisoners. One hundred women are kept in a shed.<\/span><\/p>\n

Last night, driving home, we saw that the repression forces were eating. At the red light, us three angry women with no hijabs were staring at them. They refused to look into our eyes. It is the tenth day of the presence of people in the streets. There is now nearly a full military curfew in Tehran.<\/span><\/p>\n

We have come a long way: from December 2018, when Vida Movahed, a young woman from Tehran, sparked the <\/span>Girls of Enghelab<\/span><\/a> protests against the mandatory hijab<\/span>, to today, when girls burn headscarves and dance in the streets. We have come a long way: to realizing that whether the country is sanctioned or not, the amount of food on our dinner tables is getting smaller. We have come a long way: from the day when we were participating in elections with hope, shouting Where is my vote?, to seeing that it doesn\u2019t matter if the government is fundamentalist or moderate, because democracy and laws have lost all meaning in this country. We have come a long way: from all the arrests and detentions, and from mourning <\/span>Sahar Khodayari<\/a>, the \u201cBlue Girl<\/span>,\u201d who lost her life to watch football <\/span>in 2019,<\/span> to the day that stadiums were conditionally opened to women due to pressure from activists and FIFA<\/small>. The truth is that we have seen the fate of our Afghan sisters <\/span>following the country\u2019s takeover by the Taliban,<\/span> and we know we shouldn\u2019t expect the West and America to save us; we are our own saviors. Whether this is a women’s revolution or a revolution for women, we won\u2019t go back.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Nilo Tabrizy is a video journalist for the <\/em>New York Times covering Iran-related stories, news and investigations.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Before this September, I hadn\u2019t heard from Yara in months. They\u2019re an Iranian journalist who has reported for the country\u2019s most prominent newspapers and publications. We first met in New York in 2018 and bonded over the difficulties that come with reporting on Iran: they were rightly afraid of being arrested for their work, and […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2294,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[68551],"tags":[68549,67827,26087,68548,68550,781,3863],"class_list":["post-162081","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-dispatch","tag-demonstrations","tag-featured","tag-fifa","tag-hijab","tag-morality-police","tag-police","tag-protests"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nNotes from Iran by Nilo Tabrizy<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"October 19, 2022 \u2013 Before this September, I hadn\u2019t heard from Yara in months. 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