{"id":153174,"date":"2021-06-23T12:55:51","date_gmt":"2021-06-23T16:55:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=153174"},"modified":"2021-06-23T15:39:40","modified_gmt":"2021-06-23T19:39:40","slug":"the-dogs-of-plaza-almagro","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2021\/06\/23\/the-dogs-of-plaza-almagro\/","title":{"rendered":"The Dogs of Plaza Almagro"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em>\u201cI\u2019m interested in people\u2019s specificity,\u201d Hebe Uhart once remarked. The Argentine writer, who died in 2018, wrote with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2019\/05\/09\/listen-to-hebe-uhart-now-that-shes-gone\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">what Alejandra Costamagna terms<\/a> \u201ca philosophical position that arises from the ordinary.\u201d <\/em><a href=\"https:\/\/bookshop.org\/a\/1531\/9781939810922\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Animals<\/a><em>, a new collection of Uhart\u2019s writing on creatures, critters, and companions, offers countless examples of her keen powers of observation. In the below excerpt, Uhart visits Plaza Almagro in Buenos Aires and interviews an eccentric collection of dog owners.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_153176\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/dog-park.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-153176\" class=\"wp-image-153176 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/dog-park.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1000\" height=\"752\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/dog-park.jpeg 1000w, https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/dog-park-300x226.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/dog-park-768x578.jpeg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (min-width: 62.5em) 67vw, 100vw\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-153176\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Frank Paton, <em>A Found Toy<\/em>, ca. 1878, oil on panel, 12 1\/2 x 15 1\/2&#8243;. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Here we are in winter, but the winter has made a mistake: it\u2019s a spring day. The plaza is full of dogs, alone<em>\u00a0<\/em>and accompanied; they\u2019ve been set loose to enjoy the lovely day. Beside me sits a very circumspect lady with a dog on A+ behavior, not even sparing a look at the dogs in the pen as they bark wildly. She says to me:<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI\u2019ve always protected animals. Back when I worked at a logistics warehouse I used to pick up all the ones that people dumped there.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cSe\u00f1ora, what do they store at a logistics warehouse?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhat does that matter? I have great memories of Torolo and Negrita, who\u2019d made a hole in the concrete to hide their puppies, and Torolo used to slip away and come back later, always right at mealtime.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>When she says Torolo\u2019s name, her voice makes it sound as though he were some famous singer.<\/p>\n<p>A girl walks by with a slightly frenzied dog, and the lady says, \u201cTo have contact with a dog, you need to be balanced, and if the dog has a lot of energy, you keep yours low. That girl is adding to her dog\u2019s energy.\u201d <!--more--><\/p>\n<p>I am afraid I won\u2019t pass the energy or aptitude test and go off to another bench, whistling softly to myself. There sits Mar\u00eda Cristina, with her little dog Sharka. The dog is wearing a jacket on which it says <small>PLAYBOY<\/small>. Mar\u00eda Cristina has something birdlike and nocturnal about her, with her lips in a shade of blue; her hair is golden, and she wears tinted glasses. She says:<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThey gave her to me with the name Sharka. She came from a house with an abusive man, he\u2019d beat the people and the dogs. My sister feeds her on pork chops and roast chicken, and we give her apples, that\u2019s right. She\u2019s the first dog I\u2019ve ever had. At home we had canaries, finches, parakeets. In my family, we\u2019re the kind to be around animals. In our house the birds would fly loose around the kitchen and then voluntarily get into their cages on their own.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>At one end of the plaza, a dog is running beside his owner, big blockheads the pair of them. The dog doesn\u2019t know whether to play with the ball his owner is throwing, chase the pigeons, or go after the other dogs. The owner has a similar appearance, and, as though exaggerating his feeling of heat, he has on a sleeveless T-shirt; he seems to be sweating profusely, and he gives me the impression that he\u2019s pursuing several careers or taking on various jobs but never sticking to any, always being drawn to something new. It\u2019s like Torolo\u2019s owner said: if our energies are overlapping, we don\u2019t do well.<\/p>\n<p>But it\u2019s spring \u2026 On another bench sits Victoria, but she has to go. She says:<\/p>\n<p>\u201cHe goes by Luis, but his real name is Luis Alberto, after Spinetta.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Farther along sits Mariela, age somewhere around twenty. She seems as fragile as her clothing, which is in varying colors but looks as if it\u2019s been washed with bleach or some corrosive liquid that has left all of the colors completely faded. For the same reason her skirt has a hole in it and is made of wool as fine as a strand of spittle.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIs that your dog?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cNo, he\u2019s my friend\u2019s. I feel like he\u2019s free inside the plaza.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAnd what\u2019s his name?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhy should he have just one name? He goes by Teo or Cielo. No, I don\u2019t want to own a dog, because pets are possessions\u2014we decide when they can go out or how much they eat. I don\u2019t want to enslave a living being. People even determine where they can sleep, they have to sleep wherever others decide.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAnd is there a reason for that austere outfit you\u2019re wearing?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cNo, just for the ensemble of colors.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAh. And where would you like to live?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIn the country. I\u2019d like to be a rural teacher, but I also like trades like carpentry, cooking \u2026\u2009\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWould you keep animals in the country?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI\u2019d like to have a dog without a leash, free. I\u2019d let him be with other animals \u2026\u2009\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAnd if your dog ran away, would you go looking for him?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI\u2019d go looking for him, but I\u2019m not convinced that he\u2019d ever come back.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>I leave the realm of freedom and go over to the pen, which is the realm of barking. I go in and dogs of all sizes come over, leaping up on me; a dog walker energetically gets them in line, though I don\u2019t know if Mariela would have approved of this exercising of authority. The walker\u2019s name is Ram\u00f3n, and he\u2019s short on temper and few on words. He doesn\u2019t feel like talking about the dogs; one is called Vicky, another N\u00e9stor. Named for Kirchner. (A girl I once asked for directions had named her dogs Fidel and Sandino.) Ram\u00f3n says:<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI\u2019ve always had a <em>pep\u00e9<\/em>, because purebred dogs are very choosy about their food.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhat\u2019s a <em>pep\u00e9<\/em>?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt\u2019s a mutt,\u201d he says, and pays me no more mind. He doesn\u2019t feel like talking.<\/p>\n<p>Walking along the gravel path, I come across Iv\u00e1n, from Corrientes, a <em>chamam\u00e9<\/em> singer. He knows a lot about dogs; his is Juanita. He says:<\/p>\n<p>\u201cShe inherited the personality of a bloodhound from her father, and her mother comes from a bulldog and terrier mix. We\u2019ve committed barbarities with animals by turning them into spectacles, like in bullfighting or cockfights.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cDoes your dog know when she\u2019s misbehaving?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cYes, when she makes a mess, she gets onto the futon and doesn\u2019t move. She\u2019s five months old. Sometimes she\u2019ll tear a pillowcase. And she resents it when I leave, like a cat. Yesterday I had to run an errand and it took a while, and when I came back, she gave me the cold shoulder.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhat kind of thing do you sing?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI\u2019m a <em>chamam\u00e9<\/em> musician, I write poetry; poetry seeks you out, just like dogs.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>I go back to the pen once more, and there\u2019s a completely new line-up of dogs, and here\u2019s Nicol\u00e1s, a walker. He studied to be a park ranger in Buenos Aires; he\u2019s from Lobos and in the future aspires to become a ranger in a protected area and study the fauna.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhat about dogs drew your attention when you started working?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cMy attention was drawn to the way they communicated with the posture of their bodies and the energy they transmit. The energy thing stands out. I have a friend who\u2019s a walker, and the dog that leads her pack is the tiniest one. They express things with their bodies that we can\u2019t. I think they\u2019re more honest than we are.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>I don\u2019t want to get myself into those complex depths, so I ask:<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhy do tiny dogs confront much larger dogs? Can\u2019t they perceive their size?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cLittle dogs want to demonstrate their energy. I think they perceive energy more than size.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhat do you remember from your first days as a dog walker?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThe pack concept: I would end up being the alpha, but some packs have an alpha and a beta, that is, not just a first but also a second, though not all packs do. I come from Lobos, and I\u2019ve seen a street dog curled up from the cold, and when another dog nearby growls, the curled up one will stretch out in a show of submission, all without physical contact. One thing that alarms lots of dogs is a hat with earflaps (if a man is wearing one). They can\u2019t understand it, maybe because the ears are hidden, and they\u2019re also disturbed by fluorescent colors, but they always look at what people have on their heads.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAnd what surprises them the most?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThey\u2019re shocked if someone hits them because that behavior doesn\u2019t happen among them; they bite each other, they don\u2019t hit.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAnd what\u2019s your dog\u2019s name?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cMy dog comes from Lobos. His name is Lennon.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Then he tells me how European hares and starlings are threatening the local species, but that comes from his knowledge as a park ranger.<\/p>\n<p>And I go off to take a look at someone on a bench; I\u2019m puzzled by her <em>mater dolorosa<\/em> bearing. She has a puppy on her skirt who is very comfortable in that spot but wears a mournful and expectant expression.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIs he yours?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cNo, he got lost here in the plaza. They say he belongs to some people who come here often.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhat\u2019s his name?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cHe doesn\u2019t have a name. I don\u2019t know.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cSo you aren\u2019t going to keep him?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI wish I could, but I live in a hotel.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>And the girl comes to the plaza every day, in case the owner turns up.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: right;\"><em>\u2014Translated from the Spanish by Robert Croll<\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><em>Born in 1936 in the outskirts of Buenos Aires, Hebe Uhart is one of Argentina\u2019s most celebrated modern writers, and a teacher to fiction writers like Alejandro Zambra, Mariana Enr\u00edquez, and Samanta Schweblin. Sam Carter wrote that her work \u201chelped shape a generation of writers in Argentina as both a teacher and a writer, her influence both diffuse and impossible to ignore.\u201d During her lifetime she published two novels, <\/em>Camilo asciende<em> (1987) and <\/em>Mudanzas<em> (1995). She is best known for her short stories and <\/em>cr\u00f3nicas<em>, where she explores the lives of ordinary characters in small Argentine towns. Her <\/em>Collected Stories<em> won the Buenos Aires Book Fair Prize (2010), and she received Argentina\u2019s National Endowment of the Arts Prize (2015) for her body of work, as well as the Manuel Rojas Ibero-American Narrative Prize (2017).<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Robert Croll is a writer, translator, musician, and artist originally from Asheville, North Carolina. He first came to translation during his undergraduate studies at Amherst College, where he focused particularly on the short fiction of Julio Cort\u00e1zar. He has worked on texts by such authors as Gustavo Rold\u00e1n, Javier Sinay, and Juan Carlos Onetti. Croll has also translated several of Ricardo Piglia\u2019s works published by Restless Books.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Excerpted from <\/em><a href=\"https:\/\/bookshop.org\/a\/1531\/9781939810922\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Animals<\/a><em>, by <\/em><em>Hebe Uhart, translated from the Spanish by Robert Croll. Excerpted with the permission of Archipelago Books. Translation copyright \u00a9 2021 by Robert Croll.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Read Hebe Uhart\u2019s short story \u201c<a href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/fiction\/7379\/coordination-hebe-uhart\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Coordination<\/a>\u201d (translated from the Spanish by Maureen Shaughnessy), which appeared in the Spring 2019 issue.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In an excerpt from \u2018Animals,\u2019 a new collection by the late Hebe Uhart, the writer visits Plaza Almagro and interviews the dog owners she meets there.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2155,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4393],"tags":[67827],"class_list":["post-153174","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-first-person","tag-featured"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized 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