{"id":124693,"date":"2018-04-27T09:00:06","date_gmt":"2018-04-27T13:00:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=124693"},"modified":"2018-04-27T11:03:54","modified_gmt":"2018-04-27T15:03:54","slug":"cooking-with-angela-carter","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2018\/04\/27\/cooking-with-angela-carter\/","title":{"rendered":"Cooking with Angela Carter"},"content":{"rendered":"

In Valerie Stivers\u2019s<\/em>\u00a0Eat Your Words<\/a>\u00a0series,\u00a0she cooks up recipes drawn from the works of various writers.<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

The writer Angela Carter (1940\u20131992) had many guises as a novelist, fairy-tale writer, and feminist theorist but was always occupied with archetypes of womanhood; her heroines undergo dark, gory, and magical processes of becoming brides or lovers, wolves or girls. I\u2019ve loved Carter since first encountering her book of cultural theory\u00a0The Sadeian Woman and the Ideology of Pornography<\/em> at Brown in the nineties (for a course entitled History 99X: Pornography and the Politics of Culture!). In it, she argues that the work of Marquis de Sade has liberating feminist underpinnings, and in the process takes something dark and frightening, like being a young woman in a world where one\u2019s body is a porn object, and molts it into something slightly better, a promise that sexuality can offer freedom too.<\/p>\n

Along the same lines, the book I\u2019ve chosen to cook from this week, Carter\u2019s 1967 novel,\u00a0The Magic Toyshop<\/em>, is a fable about a girl, Melanie, stepping out of the sane, safe, and sexless world of childhood and into the world of womanhood, which is \u201cas distorted and alien as its miniature in the witch-ball.\u201d She ultimately survives this dangerous transformation but only after being mock raped by the patriarchy\u2014represented metaphorically during a puppet show where she plays Leda and her evil uncle controls the puppet strings of a swan described as having an \u201cempty body \u2026 white and light as meringue.\u201d After this climatic scene, Melanie burns the house down and escapes with her siblings, her lover, her abused aunt, and her self-respect.\u00a0<\/p>\n

There is plenty of food preparation in the book\u2014a nanny does bread pudding; the aunt makes comfort foods like afternoon tea with \u201ca bowl of mustard and cress\u201d or \u201cjam tarts\u201d\u2014but Carter\u2019s richest use of the culinary is through her estranging metaphors. Turkeys in a shop are \u201cmauve-fleshed,\u201d artificial daisies are \u201cyellow and white like fried eggs,\u201d and Santa Claus masks are \u201cred and white as raw beef.\u201d When Finn, Melanie\u2019s stepbrother and love interest, sleeps in her bed, he is described as being \u201ccurled up succinctly, like a whiting on a plate, served with its tail in its mouth. He should have been garnished with sprigs of parsley and lemon butterflies.\u201d<\/p>\n

These lovely slippages\u2014of food from its allotted places and young women from theirs\u2014are what make the toyshop magical and life worth living.<\/p>\n

I made jam tarts, a whiting curled up on a plate with parsley and lemon, and an updated mustard-and-cress salad. I found the whiting at a specialty fishmonger near me but thought its flavor was fishier than I might have liked. Carter was English, so my cress recipe is adapted from the modern-day London culinary sensation Yotam Ottolenghi.<\/p>\n

Lastly, I pushed my own culinary envelope and made that meringue swan, surrounding him with a blood-orange cr\u00e8me anglaise. And then, like a heroine in a fairy tale, I ate him up.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Whole Baked Whiting with Lemon and Parsley<\/strong><\/p>\n

(Adapted from a\u00a0<\/em>Good Food<\/a>\u00a0recipe<\/em>)<\/p>\n

4 whiting, head on
\n4 tbs of coconut oil, preferably in solid form
\nsalt and pepper, to taste
\n4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
\n2 tbs parsley
\njuice of 1\/2 lemon
\n1 avocado, chopped
\nwooden skewers<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Preheat the oven to 400.<\/p>\n

Line a shallow-sided baking tray with baking paper.<\/p>\n

Place the whiting on the tray. Rub all over with coconut oil, and season liberally with salt and pepper.<\/p>\n

Curl the whiting up \u201csuccinctly\u201d so the tail is in the mouth, and skewer in place.<\/p>\n

Bake for twelve to fifteen minutes.<\/p>\n

While the whiting is baking, saut\u00e9 the garlic and parsley in oil until the garlic is wilted and beginning to color. Add the lemon juice and stir.<\/p>\n

Turn off the heat, add the avocado, toss, and season.<\/p>\n

Pour the warm garlic mixture over the baked fish, plate, and serve.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Mustard-and-Cress Salad<\/strong><\/p>\n

(Adapted from Yotam Ottolenghi\u2019s recipe<\/a>\u00a0<\/em>for watercress salad with quail<\/em>\u2019<\/em>s egg, ricotta, and seeds)<\/em><\/p>\n

For the salad:<\/strong><\/p>\n

4 quail eggs
\n3\/4 cup dill leaves
\n3\/4 cup basil leaves
\n3\/4 cup coriander leaves
\n2 cups watercress, torn or chopped
\n3 tbs ricotta cheese<\/p>\n

For the seeds: <\/strong><\/p>\n

2 tbs flaked almonds
\n2 tbs pumpkin seeds
\n2 tsp sesame seeds
\n1 tsp black sesame seeds
\n1 tsp mustard seeds
\n1 tsp Aleppo pepper
\n1\/2 tsp Maldon salt
\n2 tbs olive oil<\/p>\n

For the dressing:<\/strong><\/p>\n

2 garlic cloves, crushed
\n1 1\/2 tbs lemon juice
\n3 1\/2 tbs olive oil<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Start with the seeds. Put all the ingredients in a small pan and cook over medium heat until fragrant and lightly browned, about three minutes. Set aside.<\/p>\n

Put the quail eggs in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil. Turn down to a simmer, and cook for thirty seconds for semisoft yolks or two minutes for hard-boiled. Refresh in cold water, then peel.<\/p>\n

Whisk the olive oil and lemon juice together, add the garlic, and set aside for the flavor to infuse. Remove the large chunks of garlic before serving.<\/p>\n

To assemble, toss the greens with the dressing, then add the seeds, the quail eggs (halved), and the ricotta in dollops. Finish with a generous sprinkling of Maldon salt.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Jam Tarts <\/strong><\/p>\n

(Short-crust pastry adapted from <\/em>The Great Dixter Cookbook. I used ordinary muffin tins; a tartlet pan would be nice, too, of course. The flavor of the jam is important; I tried several and preferred Sarabeth<\/em>\u2019<\/em>s. I used sour-cherry, apricot, and black-currant jams.)<\/em><\/p>\n

2 1\/2 cups flour
\n1 tbs sugar, plus more for dusting
\n1 tsp salt
\n2 sticks unsalted butter, diced and rechilled
\n1 egg, beaten (plus another egg, beaten with a few tsp warm water, for brushing)
\n3\u20134 tbs water, cold (plus more if necessary)
\n24 heaping tsp good-tasting jam<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

To make the pastry: <\/strong><\/p>\n

Mix together the flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl.<\/p>\n

Add the diced butter. Pinch and rub it into the flour with your fingers until the mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs.<\/p>\n

Add the egg and the cold water, and stir.<\/p>\n

Crunch the dough together with your hands. If it comes together in a mass, it\u2019s done. If not, add a little more water until it easily forms a ball.<\/p>\n

Chill for thirty minutes.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

To assemble: <\/strong><\/p>\n

Preheat the oven to 350.<\/p>\n

Grease a twelve-cup muffin tin or tartlet pan.<\/p>\n

Roll the dough out on a floured surface until it\u2019s a quarter of an inch thick or slightly less.<\/p>\n

Using a glass or a cookie cutter, cut the dough into three-inch rounds. Press the rounds into the muffin tin or tartlet pan, and chill.<\/p>\n

While chilling, use small cookie cutters to cut the dough scraps into lids for the tarts. (This is cute but optional: they\u2019ll bake up just fine without lids.)<\/p>\n

Add one heaping teaspoon of jam to each shell, and top with a lid (again, optional). Be careful not to overfill, or the jam will bubble over and stick. Brush the lids and rims with the egg mixture, for browning, and sprinkle with sugar.<\/p>\n

Bake for twenty minutes or until golden. Allow to cool before serving, and be careful: the jam stays hot for a long time.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Meringue Swans with Blood-Orange Cr<\/strong>\u00e8<\/strong>me Anglaise<\/strong><\/p>\n

Makes four. <\/em><\/p>\n

(The meringue and cr<\/em>\u00e8<\/em>me anglaise recipes are adapted from Rose Levy Beranbaum<\/em>\u2019<\/em>s <\/em>The Cake Bible.)<\/em><\/p>\n

For the meringue: <\/strong><\/p>\n

4 egg whites, room temperature
\n1\/2 tsp cream of tartar
\n1\/2 cup superfine (caster) sugar
\n1 cup (lightly spooned into the cup) powdered sugar<\/p>\n

For the cr<\/strong>\u00e8<\/strong>me anglaise:<\/strong><\/p>\n

4 egg yolks
\n1 cup milk or half-and-half
\n2 tbs sugar
\npinch of salt
\n1\/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
\npeeled zest of 1 blood orange<\/p>\n

Miscellaneous to assemble: <\/strong><\/p>\n

slivered almonds
\norange food coloring
\ntweezers
\n1 recipe cr\u00e8me p\u00e2tissi\u00e8re<\/a><\/em>\u00a0or vanilla ice cream, softened
\npencil
\nscissors
\npaper
\nsome photos of swans
\nparchment paper
\ndisposable plastic piping bags<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Preparation:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Preheat the oven to 200.<\/p>\n

Drop one tablespoon of slivered almonds in a small bowl, add the orange food coloring, and stir. This is for the beaks.<\/p>\n

Get out your plastic pastry bags. You\u2019ll be piping the meringue to make the swan shapes. My ordinary cake- and cookie-frosting piping heads were too small, so I ended up filling the bag with meringue, then snipping off the end to make a five-eighths-of-an-inch opening to pipe the necks. I then snipped off a bit more, making a one-and-a-quarter-inch opening to pipe the bodies.<\/p>\n

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. I used a larger one for the bodies and a smaller one for the necks.<\/p>\n

Each swan will consist of two meringues standing vertically and sandwiched together, plus a neck, an almond for a beak, and either cr\u00e8me p\u00e2tissi\u00e8re<\/em> or ice cream to stick the pieces together. Your first step is to create a swan-shape template. I googled pictures of swans and then drew mine freehand on paper, keeping in mind that the necks were going to be piped separately from the bodies.<\/p>\n

Once you have the swan template drawn, cut it out, separating the neck piece from the body.<\/p>\n

Trace the body template onto the parchment paper, flipping it over and making pairs so you have two mirror-image sides for each swan. Trace the necks on a different sheet of paper. (You\u2019ll use only one per swan, but I made extras in case of breakage.) Flip both sheets of parchment over when you\u2019re done tracing so you can see the pencil marks to pipe. This ensures the pencil marks can\u2019t transfer to the meringue.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

To make the meringue: <\/strong><\/p>\n

Whip the egg whites on medium speed until foamy, then add the cream of tartar.<\/p>\n

Continue to beat at medium speed. Gradually add two tablespoons of superfine sugar.<\/p>\n

When soft peaks form when the beater is raised, add one tablespoon of superfine sugar, and increase the speed to high.<\/p>\n

When stiff peaks form when the beater is raised, gradually beat in the remaining sugar, and continue to beat until very stiff and glossy.<\/p>\n

Sift the powdered sugar over the meringue, and fold in.<\/p>\n

Fill the piping bag, snip off a three-quarters-of-an-inch opening, and pipe into the prepared neck outlines.<\/p>\n

Refill. Snip off a little more, creating a one-and-a-quarter-inch opening. Pipe into the body outlines.<\/p>\n

When you\u2019re done piping, insert the beaks into the heads, using tweezers and choosing the most beaklike almonds.<\/p>\n

Put your swan pieces in the oven. The bodies will take two hours. Start checking the necks at thirty minutes. If they\u2019re crisp, light, and hollow and they come off the paper easily, they\u2019re done.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

To make the cr<\/strong>\u00e8<\/strong>me anglaise: <\/strong><\/p>\n

Put one cup of milk, the vanilla bean, and the blood-orange peel in a saucepan, and bring to a boil. Set aside.<\/p>\n

Strain the milk mixture, discarding the vanilla bean and orange peel.<\/p>\n

Put the four egg yolks in a small noncorrodible saucepan, and stir in the sugar and salt, using a wooden spoon.<\/p>\n

Add two tablespoons of the strained milk to the egg mixture. Stir thoroughly to combine.<\/p>\n

Add the remaining milk in a slow stream, stirring constantly.<\/p>\n

Heat the mixture, stirring constantly, till just before the boiling point. Steam will begin to appear, and the mixture will be slightly heavier than heavy cream. When ready, it will leave a well-defined track when a finger is run across the back of the spoon.<\/p>\n

Immediately remove from the heat, and pour through a strainer.<\/p>\n

Chill before serving.<\/p>\n

To assemble the swans: <\/strong><\/p>\n

When the meringues are baked and cooled, assemble the swans using ice cream or\u00a0cr\u00e8me<\/em> p\u00e2tissi\u00e8re<\/em>. (You\u2019ll want to fill another piping bag with it, then snip a five-eighths-of-an-inch hole off the end.)<\/p>\n

Spoon the cr\u00e8me anglaise around the swan on the plate. Serve immediately.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Valerie Stivers is a writer based in New York.\u00a0<\/em>Read earlier\u00a0installments of Eat Your Words\u00a0here<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In Valerie Stivers\u2019s\u00a0Eat Your Words\u00a0series,\u00a0she cooks up recipes drawn from the works of various writers.     The writer Angela Carter (1940\u20131992) had many guises as a novelist, fairy-tale writer, and feminist theorist but was always occupied with archetypes of womanhood; her heroines undergo dark, gory, and magical processes of becoming brides or lovers, wolves […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":669,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[30795],"tags":[1147,33863,5812,1593,33864,33862,33865],"class_list":["post-124693","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-eat-your-words","tag-angela-carter","tag-brown-university","tag-marquis-de-sade","tag-santa-claus","tag-the-magic-toyshop","tag-the-sadeian-woman-and-the-ideology-of-pornography","tag-yotam-ottolenghi"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCooking with Angela Carter<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Whole baked whiting, mustard-and-cress salad, jam tarts, and meringue swans with blood-orange cr\u00e8me anglaise.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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