{"id":116131,"date":"2017-09-28T11:01:36","date_gmt":"2017-09-28T15:01:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=116131"},"modified":"2017-09-28T12:16:23","modified_gmt":"2017-09-28T16:16:23","slug":"starving-artists-cookbook","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2017\/09\/28\/starving-artists-cookbook\/","title":{"rendered":"The Starving Artist’s Cookbook"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

For some young artists trying to make it, starving is a rite of passage; for others, it is a permanent state of dedication, or a financial necessity. No matter the reasons, the starving artist is a timeless figure, present in every era of every society, socialist or capitalist, boom or bust. But the starving artist of New York in the seventies and eighties holds a special place in the cultural imagination.<\/p>\n

On Sunday, I cleaved my way through the sweaty, contemporary crowds at the New York Art Book Fair, hosted at MoMA PS1, to see an exhibition of \u201cFood Sex Art<\/em>: The Starving Artist\u2019s Cookbook Archive 1986\u20131991.\u201d The cookbook was put together between 1986 and 1991 by EIDIA<\/small>, an artist duo of Paul Lamarre and Melissa Wolf. EIDIA<\/small>, comes from the Greek eidos<\/em>, for \u201ckind,\u201d<\/em> and is intended as an acronym for, among other things, \u201cEverything I Do Is Art\u201d and \u201cEvery Individual Does Individual Art.\u201d The cookbook\u2014a thick stack of typewritten pages bound with three rings\u2014had an original print run of five hundred. It featured 161 \u201crecipes,\u201d some real and some strange, from artists including\u00a0Peter Beard, Louise Bourgeois, John Cage, Quentin Crisp, William Wegman, and Lawrence Weiner.\u00a0The project was also a video series. EIDIA<\/small> filmed the artists cooking in their studios, and the original series ran to nine hours. The book is now a collector\u2019s item, and this exhibition, presented by the rare-book purveyor Arthur Fournier, displayed individual pages next to old photos and the videos EIDIA<\/small> shot.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

A photo of the \u201cFood Sex Art\u201d exhibition at the\u00a0New York Art Book Fair.<\/p><\/div>\n

Several of the East Village artists had gathered in a dim room in a corner of PS1 to discuss their recipes and memories of the time: Anthony Haden-Guest, Donald Goddard, Betty Tompkins, Bill Mutter, and David Sandlin. The project began, Paul Lamarre recalled, with his own recipe for glamorous beans and onions. EIDIA<\/small> began approaching friends for recipes, and, in the process, recorded the humor and intimacy of the East Village art scene. Hardly any of the artists, however, were actually cooks. Guest, when asked to contribute, said, \u201cI don\u2019t really cook, I\u2019ll mix a drink.\u201d He went down to the Baby Doll\u2014\u201cthe only politically correct topless bar\u201d\u2014put on a blindfold, and chose three bottles at random (one of which, unfortunately, was Kahl\u00faa).<\/p>\n

John Cage, one of the first participants in the cookbook, contributed his \u201cSoup des Jours.\u201d A\u00a0play on soup du jour, or soup of the day, Cage\u2019s soup is meant to last many days. Some recipes\u2014including one of Lamarre\u2019s own\u2014were more surreal. Lamarre suggests cooking his own body after his death. He separates his body into the id and the ego. From the id, the feet are to be pickled and the \u201cpenis and my \u2018prairie oysters\u2019 \u201d are \u201ca delicacy in more ways than one and should be prepared as such.\u201d From the ego, the eyes are to be served wandering through a glass decanter like a lava lamp, and the brain is to be eaten as dessert. Debby Davis suggests putting a flashlight into a jello mold, which can be turned on just before being served. Quentin Crisp\u2019s contribution is titled \u201cEating Is a Bad Habit,\u201d and begins, \u201cWell, it is true, eating is only a bad habit and it\u2019s addictive and unless you pull yourself together and learn not to eat, you will only find yourself eating more and more.\u201d<\/p>\n

After they got a few recipes under their belt, EIDIA<\/small> was referred to artist after artist, in New York and in Europe. The Fluxus\u00a0artist Endre T\u00f3t wrote two recipes for soup: one normal soup for normal people, a version of goulash, and one abnormal soup for abnormal people, rainwater soup: \u201cTake one liter of rainwater. Boil it till left the half of it. The part steamed away is MY SOUP, the part left is YOUR SOUP.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

A photo of the\u00a0\u201cFood Sex Art\u201d exhibition at the New York Art Book Fair.<\/p><\/div>\n

While artists at the panel claimed that they hung Food Sex Art<\/em>\u00a0by its rusting, three-ring binding on a hook in the kitchen, attempts to replicate many of the recipes would not have gone as edibly as planned. The Russian artists Komar and Melamid suggest a \u201cBurger Pravda.\u201d The recipe calls for \u201cOne Pravda<\/em> (shredded) 4 pages*,\u201d run through a meat grinder with enough water to moisten, then formed into patties and fried in a pan. The asterisk reads, \u201cPravda<\/em>, (the official Russian newspaper) currently only consists of 3 pages so adjust recipe accordingly.\u201d \u201cYou might want to experiment with the\u00a0New York Times<\/em>,\u201d they add at the recipe\u2019s end. After the Anthology Film Archives ran a projection of the video series, the projectionist went home and tried to make William Wegman\u2019s recipe, which read simply, \u201cAs you would pop popcorn, pop vitamin C.\u201d The projectionist came back the next night complaining the recipe was a bust: \u201cThe vitamin C got all soggy in the oil!\u201d<\/p>\n

Now, the artists agreed, the community has become more of a diaspora and the art world as they knew it\u00a0no longer exists. But the footage, much of which is available on YouTube, captures the energy of the era: John Cage, being fitted with a microphone, says\u00a0<\/a>that he doesn\u2019t like to talk very loudly. Louise Bourgeois and her assistant, Jerry Gorovoy, take a saw to large pieces of oxtail<\/a> for a dinner party\u2014the same saw Bourgeois is using for a series of sculptures. In one video, a bird flies in and perches on the shoulder of the pioneer feminist artist Hannah Wilke as she sits down to eat in her loft. Wilke kisses the bird. When she\u2019s told she shouldn\u2019t kiss the bird flying around her loft, she laughs it off.<\/p>\n

What emerges from the cookbook is a portrait of a mentality; these artists, though we may think of them\u00a0now with great respect, never took themselves too seriously. As the engine behind the project, EIDIA<\/small> was able to see creative force in even the simplest of recipes. Painter Betty Tompkins contributed a recipe for fried spaghetti, containing spaghetti, garlic, oil, and any herbs on hand. Lamarre was impressed with it, saying, \u201cThis is a great basic dish because you could add anything to it.\u201d \u201cHuh?\u201d Betty replied. It had never occurred to her to add anything to the spaghetti.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

William Wegman\u2019s \u201cPopped Vitamin C.\u201d<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Quentin Crisp\u2019s \u201cEating is a Bad Habit.\u201d<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/a>

David Sandlin\u2019s \u201cIrish Plum Tart.\u201d<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Komar and\u00a0Melamid\u2019s \u201cBurger Pravda.\u201d<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Hannah Wilke\u2019s \u201cMussels\u00a0Manna from Hannah.\u201d<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Lawrence Weiner\u2019s \u201cHard Boiled Eggs.\u201d<\/p><\/div>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Endre T\u00f3t’s \u201cTwo Soups.\u201d<\/p><\/div>\n

<\/a><\/p>\n

Nausicaa Renner is a senior editor at <\/em>n+1. She tweets at @nausjcaa<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

For some young artists trying to make it, starving is a rite of passage; for others, it is a permanent state of dedication, or a financial necessity. No matter the reasons, the starving artist is a timeless figure, present in every era of every society, socialist or capitalist, boom or bust. But the starving artist […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1190,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[419],"tags":[30789,26458,30791,30792,30793,30790,30780,30779,8117,30794,30786,28,30782,30788,30787,30781,30783,30784,30785],"class_list":["post-116131","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-arts-culture","tag-anthony-haden-guest","tag-arthur-fournier","tag-betty-tompkins","tag-bill-mutter","tag-david-sandlin","tag-donald-goddard","tag-eida","tag-food-sex-art-the-starving-artists-cookbook","tag-john-cage","tag-komar-melamid","tag-lawrence-wiener","tag-louise-bourgeois","tag-melissa-wolf","tag-moma-ps1","tag-ny-art-book-fair","tag-paul-lamarre","tag-peter-beard","tag-quentin-crisp","tag-william-wegman"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Starving Artist's Cookbook<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In the late \u201980s, EIDA collected absurd recipes from the East Village art scene: John Cage, Louise Bourgeois, William Wegman, among others.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2017\/09\/28\/starving-artists-cookbook\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Starving Artist's Cookbook by Nausicaa Renner\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"September 28, 2017 \u2013 For some young artists trying to make it, starving is a rite of passage; for others, it is a permanent state of dedication, or a financial necessity. 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