{"id":113589,"date":"2017-08-28T11:00:03","date_gmt":"2017-08-28T15:00:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=113589"},"modified":"2017-08-28T10:42:32","modified_gmt":"2017-08-28T14:42:32","slug":"reading-eating-paris","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2017\/08\/28\/reading-eating-paris\/","title":{"rendered":"Reading and Eating Paris"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"<\/a>

All images from Hazel and Hewstone Raymenton\u2019s travel journal, England and France, July 1914. By permission of Special Collections, University of Iowa Libraries.<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

Memories of Paris are entwined with its eateries. From Hemingway\u2019s <\/span>A Moveable Feast<\/span><\/i> to expatriates\u2019 essays in the <\/span>New York Times<\/span><\/i> following the terrorist attacks in November 2015, writers have shown how their lives in Paris are marked by its restaurants, bakeries, and markets. Hemingway\u2019s account of his postwar Parisian life uses food to define his days, his success, and his relationships. His struggle to find outlets for his fiction is linked with the tantalizing \u201cbakery shops\u201d that \u201chad such good things in the windows and people [eating] outside at tables on the sidewalk so that you saw and smelled the food.\u201d He recounts meeting authors and artists for aperitifs or champagne, explaining that \u201cdrinking wine \u2026 was as natural as eating and to me as necessary, and I would not have thought of eating a meal without drinking either wine or cider or beer.\u201d He wrote in caf\u00e9s amid the \u201csmell of caf\u00e9 cr\u00e8mes.\u201d A century later, news of the November attacks brought nostalgia for one writer, who, no longer in Paris, recalled the market \u201cbeckoning with the smell of roasting chickens\u201d and \u201cthe flash of bright fruit against stark winter skies.\u201d Another essayist described his decision, days later, to seek out the farmers and vendors of his local market. Its reopening, he wrote, reflected the resilience of Paris: \u201cthe market will be a celebration of the city itself, unvanquished, animated and always hungry.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

For those who come to Paris as either actual or armchair tourists, guidebooks discuss how and where to savor the city\u2019s food. Galignani\u2019s 1830 guide for English-speaking visitors, as David McCullough observes, promised readers that French caf\u00e9s and restaurants, characterized by elegance and quality, were superior to those of London. The Galignani guide explained everything from pricing to the Parisian habit of \u201clounging away nearly the whole of the day in caf\u00e9s\u201d to the French dish of \u201cfried and fricasseed frogs,\u201d which, readers were assured, \u201care an acknowledged and exquisite luxury.\u201d Reading has long been a prelude to eating well in Paris.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Although McCullough notes many Americans\u2019 appreciation for French food, readers did not always respond with simple enthusiasm. Annotations in a restaurant guidebook by a pair of readers in the 1920s create a guide within a guide, an account of their growing familiarity with Paris and its cuisine. The readers were Hazel J. Raymenton and her husband, Hewston Knight Raymenton, known as Remy. When they married, in October 1912, Hazel became part of a New England upper-class family, as Remy was the son of a Worcester doctor and a Yale graduate. Their marriage was announced in the <\/span>Emerson College Magazine<\/span><\/i>, among other publications. One, with the headline \u201cBride Gifted in Elocution,\u201d noted Hazel\u2019s degree from the Emerson College of Oratory. The <\/span>Boston Evening Transcript<\/span><\/i> also reported that \u201cMrs. and Mrs. Raymenton start at once for a trip through France, Italy, and England.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

While no record of that trip exists, the couple kept a diary that details a second European trip two years later, beginning in 1914 in England. The initial pages of their joint travelogue provide dates and places of embarkment and arrival, cities and churches visited, with further descriptive details. The diary includes mementoes, like a feather from the Sherwood Forest, and magazine clippings about the venues they visited. <\/span><\/p>\n

Their travel plans brought them to Paris in late July 1914, which they hailed as returning to a familiar and lovely setting. They would revisit \u201ctheir old favorites\u201d in the Louvre, and Hazel would buy \u201ca lovely hat at my old shop in the Rue del Opera.\u201d Their first full day in Paris, though, was spent window shopping and church visiting. \u201cLater,\u201d she wrote, \u201cwe tackled the Champs-Elys\u00e9e, where we accidentally sat down for ten minutes to watch the crowd and give Remy a chance to abuse me for wearing shoes that hurt me.\u201d Breakfast in bed\u2014\u201cas usual\u201d\u2014and drinks in \u201cthe open air\u201d or in parks with ducks and musicians offered her solace amid crowds and dark, musty museums. Remy singled out Parisian cuisine, praising a dinner at Viels as being<\/span> \u201cvery fine as is usual in France, the home of the world\u2019s best cooks.\u201d For several days, their stay continued this way: expensive afternoon coffee, exquisite dinners, and observations about the city\u2019s cultural highlights. When a late-night burlesque show prompted Remy to proclaim, \u201cParis is quite as wicked as I had expected and decidedly too fast for me,\u201d Hazel made him claim the remarks as his own judgment, rather than one they shared.<\/span><\/p>\n

Unrest following the assassination of the socialist Jean Jaur\u00e8s and a run on French banks after France declared war on July 28 did not, initially, disrupt the Raymentons\u2019 plans. Within days, however, money matters became acutely difficult, along with anyone\u2019s ability to travel within or outside of France. When Germany declared war on Russia, Hazel\u2019s complaint that \u201call of our waiters and cooks have gone to war, so that we are forced to eat outside\u201d sounds like a line lifted from a <\/span>Downton Abbey<\/span><\/i> script. Once the sight of \u201cvery weepy\u201d women \u201ckissing the men goodbye\u201d replaced views of landmarks and gardens, Hazel seemed to realize the significance of the events they were witnessing. She declared that she had \u201cno idea what will become of us\u201d and that she would not write any more without calm and perspective. Although Hazel no longer wrote in their diary, Remy continued to document their experiences in Paris during the first days of World War I and their passage back to the United States. At home, the Raymentons resumed a life both social and supportive of the war effort, and as soon as practicable, they embarked on another European vacation.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Along with other Americans who had first seen France in the 1910s, they returned to Paris in the twenties. This time,<\/span> Hazel and her husband traveled with <\/span>Le guide du gourmand \u00e0 Paris.<\/span><\/i> This guidebook was a small volume of little more than a hundred pages that was revised and reprinted some five times between 1922 and 1929, first in French and then in English. The book gives no explicit account of its revisions, but some editions include forms for reader feedback that could be sent to the publisher to inform future editions. These versions also include a questionnaire that asked whether the book had been helpful, whether the reader liked its organization, and what he or she would exclude or add; all these pages remain in the two copies the Raymentons owned. Its pages describe the food one might eat; the availability of house wine or pre\u2013World War I vintages, depending on the site; the presence of journalists, businessmen, and attractive women among one\u2019s fellow diners. Published pseudonymously, the small book is associated with Robert Burnand, a French historian who published numerous books about Paris, such as <\/span>Everyday Life in France from 1870 to 1900<\/span><\/i>, under his own name.<\/span><\/p>\n

The <\/span>Guide<\/span><\/i> touted itself as an informed, insider\u2019s guide. It promised quality rather than venues already in the public eye. Burnand argued that little-known eateries would not be compromised by any popularity that might ensue from his readers\u2019 patronage, suggesting instead that readers and extant customers were all \u201cpeople of taste.\u201d The <\/span>Guide<\/span><\/i> was organized into four main categories based on the cost of dining, with others for \u201cfood shops,\u201d \u201cforeign cooking,\u201d as well as nearby cities and foods from notable regions, such as Alsace and Burgundy; an index clustered eateries by destination and neighborhood. At times, the descriptions verge on rhapsody, calling to mind \u201cthe beautiful butter \u2026 and all the other good things that hail from the rich valleys of the Seine\u201d in Normandy, the \u201cillustrious vintages [of Burgundy] of which one can hardly speak without emotion,\u201d and the \u201cwonderful rosy hued Rhone wines, born of the soil of Provence and the powerful sun of the Vivarais.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

When Hazel and her husband came back to Paris after the war, they bought Burnand\u2019s guide in both French and English. Their heavily annotated 1925 French edition of the book documents their renewed familiarity with the place whose food they had loved before, showing them as readers of both Burnand and the city itself. Where the earlier diaries were a conversation between husband and wife about their discovery of a storied city, marginalia in their French copy of the <\/span>Guide<\/span><\/i> show them as readers, eaters, and writers in dialogue with Burnand\u2019s words and judgments. The nature of their remarks suggests educated and spirited reviewers who rewrote the <\/span>Guide<\/span><\/i> to reflect their own taste and knowledge.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Hazel and Remy systematically sought out restaurants in the <\/span>Guide<\/span><\/i>, checking off each visit and noting changes of address or closures. They had their favorites, praising the \u201cgood food, good wine, careful service\u201d at Radi\u00e9, and they echoed Burnand\u2019s spare praise of another restaurant\u2019s \u201cpublic \u00e9legant, salle charmant\u201d with the assessment that it was indeed a\u00a0\u201cthoroughly delightful restaurant.\u201d\u00a0 They critiqued the interior of Laroche, which Burnand described as a small, humble restaurant offering provincial dishes near the Bon March\u00e9, finding it \u201cso clean and bright it looks like an operating room.\u201d Despite the atmosphere, Remy conceded, it had \u201cgood food.\u201d Occasionally, they seemed puzzled, asking, \u201cBut who wants Norwegian food?\u201d about a Scandinavian place on the rue Vavin before conceding that it had a \u201cgood bar.\u201d <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

More often, though, they responded to Burnand\u2019s assessments with assertive evaluations of their own. They were not afraid to revise their opinions, as in the case of the Grill Room on the Place Saint-Michel, where initially they liked the food and disliked the service. Later, Remy scratched through their first impressions and penciled in what they found notable after revisiting the restaurant. Sometimes, the response is a colloquial rejoinder, as when they met Burnand\u2019s enthusiasm for La Poule au Pot with the dismissive \u201cIt used to be good but is steadily going downhill,\u201d or his praise of Au Petit Marguery with \u201ca miserable place.\u201d Where Burnand classified Maxim\u2019s as a \u201cluxurious restaurant,\u201d the Raymentons argued that it \u201clives on its reputation.\u201d<\/p>\n

If Hemingway regarded Paris as a moveable feast, an experience that endured and ennobled the visitor even after leaving the city, Hazel and Remy seemed determined to return and to immerse themselves in it after fleeing during the first days of the Great War. That war, historian Margaret Macmillan has observed, left its mark on Paris, whose streets, even in the peace that followed, included refugees, wounded veterans, and damage to landmarks from Germany\u2019s long-range \u201cParis guns.\u201d In his preface to the <\/span>Guide<\/span><\/i>, Burnand quoted a statesman who said, \u201cPeace must be a perpetual creation,\u201d and the same was true of <\/span>Le guide du gourmand a Paris<\/span><\/i>, he wrote: the problem is \u201cthat which we wrote may be true at the moment, and no longer be a month later.\u201d His tone signals a need for maintenance and rebuilding, even of things made of words, and Hazel and Remy, with theirs, contributed to this effort to ensure that the best of what Paris had to offer would be known and celebrated. With Burnand and other postwar visitors, the Raymentons sought to enjoy and to ensure the record of Paris\u2019s culinary heritage.<\/span><\/p>\n

My visit to Paris last year, with my husband and mother, coincided with the Bastille Day attacks in Nice. In Paris, on July 15, I woke to the\u00a0headline \u201cGagner\u00a0la guerre\u201d\u00a0and images of helmeted soldiers\u00a0in\u00a0<\/span>Le Figaro<\/span><\/i>; I ate a breakfast of\u00a0<\/span>pain au\u00a0chocolat<\/span><\/em>\u00a0and\u00a0caf\u00e9 au\u00a0lait<\/em> and went\u00a0out\u00a0into the city. At Notre Dame, police carrying automatic rifles walked\u00a0among the crowds outside the church as Mass took place inside. The doors of the\u00a0Mus\u00e9e\u00a0d\u2019Orsay\u00a0closed as the city paused for a commemorative moment of silence. Later, I boarded\u00a0a train after a\u00a0day at the national library and found myself in a car with a trio of French police in protective gear and carrying arms;\u00a0back at\u00a0our hotel, the television\u00a0recounted\u00a0the details of an\u00a0ax-wielding\u00a0attacker on a German train. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span>The effect of reading what others have\u00a0written\u2014the memoirs and the guidebooks and the photo essays\u2014is that visiting Paris for the first time is revisiting it. Other writers\u2019\u00a0impressions encourage\u00a0us\u00a0to seek out special places, to read menus in hopes of a particular dish, and to leave us laughing with recognition and wonder when we find ourselves standing at a landmark we weren\u2019t looking for but found anyway. Yet\u00a0even as I approached\u00a0an old\u00a0corner\u00a0restaurant and wondered if it might be in Hazel and Remy\u2019s guidebook, a block or so later,\u00a0everything\u2014the guide, the terrorists, the crowds of tourists and the late July heat\u2014would be forgotten\u00a0at the sight of a dragon-carved\u00a0stone\u00a0doorway\u00a0or a small, peaceful garden.\u00a0The great duality of Paris\u2014the way its history forces you into the present, the moment of your witnessing it for the first time\u2014made\u00a0sense of the\u00a0Raymentons\u2019 attempts\u00a0to relish their time in a threatened city\u00a0a century ago.<\/span><\/p>\n

When we came across\u00a0a St.\u00a0Germain\u00a0bistro in a cool, shaded alley, its appeal was immense. With my first bite of\u00a0<\/span>risotto aux\u00a0asperges<\/span><\/i>\u00a0at\u00a0a small table propped up by a stack of coasters along a cobbled street\u00a0that had\u00a0been the site\u00a0of events\u00a0of the French Revolution, the\u00a0Raymentons\u2019\u00a0words came back to me.\u00a0They\u00a0had written\u00a0wistfully about\u00a0L\u2019\u00c9toile du Nord, calling it \u201ca splendid restaurant,\u201d and Remy added, \u201cIf I lived in the Quarter, I fear I should eat nowhere but here.\u201d Years later, at an entirely different restaurant, his words were still true. The creamy risotto and the clear, crisp wine were all I wanted, so I raised a glass, across the years, to Hemingway and to Hazel, and all the writers whose words wrought this city for me before I had a place at one of its tables. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Jennifer Burek Pierce lives and writes in the Midwest. She is on the faculty of the University of Iowa and is the author of <\/em>What Adolescents Ought to Know.\u00a0Her next project is a book called <\/em>Readers, Writers, Citizens.\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

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  Memories of Paris are entwined with its eateries. From Hemingway\u2019s A Moveable Feast to expatriates\u2019 essays in the New York Times following the terrorist attacks in November 2015, writers have shown how their lives in Paris are marked by its restaurants, bakeries, and markets. Hemingway\u2019s account of his postwar Parisian life uses food to […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1230,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[5027],"tags":[5371,33,30261,2877,30252,25246,8646,5762,30243,115,30247,30246,30259,16794,30248,30249,30254,30264,30260,30258,30255,30251,30262,25145,3797,30263,270,30257,30245,11218,30256,30250,30244,10608,10083,30253,8120,7740],"class_list":["post-113589","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-on-food","tag-a-moveable-feast","tag-archives","tag-au-petit-marguery","tag-bastille-day","tag-champs-elysee","tag-cuisine","tag-david-mccollough","tag-downton-abbey","tag-ernest-hemnigway","tag-food","tag-frog-legs","tag-galignani","tag-grill-room","tag-guidebooks","tag-hazel-j-raymenton","tag-hewston-knight-raymenton","tag-jean-jaures","tag-letoile-du-nord","tag-la-poule-au-pot","tag-laroche","tag-le-guide-du-gourmand-a-paris","tag-louvre","tag-margaret-macmillan","tag-markets","tag-maxims","tag-nice","tag-paris","tag-radie","tag-resilience","tag-restaurants","tag-robert-burnand","tag-sherwood-forest","tag-terrorist-attacks","tag-tourism","tag-travelogue","tag-viels","tag-wine","tag-world-war-i"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nReading and Eating Paris by Jennifer Burek Pierce<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Memories of Paris are entwined with its eateries.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2017\/08\/28\/reading-eating-paris\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Reading and Eating Paris by Jennifer Burek Pierce\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"August 28, 2017 \u2013   Memories of Paris are entwined with its eateries. 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