{"id":108555,"date":"2017-03-08T09:21:30","date_gmt":"2017-03-08T14:21:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=108555"},"modified":"2017-03-08T16:00:39","modified_gmt":"2017-03-08T21:00:39","slug":"now-mend-my-silks-boy-and-other-news","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2017\/03\/08\/now-mend-my-silks-boy-and-other-news\/","title":{"rendered":"Now Mend My Silks, Boy, and Other News"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_108556\" style=\"width: 1010px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/lesmodes.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-108556\" class=\"wp-image-108556\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/lesmodes.png\" width=\"1000\" height=\"776\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/lesmodes.png 1000w, https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/lesmodes-300x233.png 300w, https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/lesmodes-768x596.png 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (min-width: 62.5em) 67vw, 100vw\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-108556\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">From <i>Les Modes<\/i> magazine, 1910.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Happy International Women\u2019s Day. A century ago, in Paris, as the Great War raged, women were putting on pairs of coveralls and taking to the factories, trying to balance gender norms with the demands of wartime; men, flummoxed to find women at work, behaved generally like oafs, as is their wont. An exhibition in Paris, \u201cMode et Femmes, 14\/18,\u201d explores\u00a0the upheaval surrounding women\u2019s fashions at the time, and its deeper causes. Rebecca Appel writes, \u201c<a href=\"https:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2017\/03\/07\/fashion\/world-war-1-exhibition-paris.html?rref=collection%2Fsectioncollection%2Farts\" target=\"_blank\">If the war accelerated modernization already underway, fashion also reflected profound anxiety about women\u2019s liberation<\/a> \u2026 As men were called up, women took traditionally male jobs (driving trams, delivering mail, working in factories), and their clothes reflected both the cultural ambivalence about this shift, and its temporary nature. Nurses excepted, most women wore their own dresses on the job, denoting official roles with homemade insignia \u2026 the government eventually mandated that factories provide protective workwear for women, but images of female industrial workers in men\u2019s gear generated biting criticism in the press. One 1917 magazine caricature in the exhibition shows a bar scene, with a woman in coveralls talking to a male factory worker. \u2018What\u2019s your husband doing?\u2019 he asks. \u2018He\u2019s at home mending my silks,\u2019 the woman responds.\u201d<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>Not nearly enough has changed in the intervening century. Eliza Starbuck Little, writing on Chris Kraus\u2019s concept of the \u201cSerious Young Woman,\u201d says, \u201c<a href=\"https:\/\/thepointmag.com\/2017\/criticism\/i-love-dick\" target=\"_blank\">One of the first times I TAed a philosophy class, the professor I was working with remarked on what a great choice I was for the position<\/a> \u2026 I was a woman of color, and it was good for students to see someone who looked like me at the front of the classroom in a field that struggled with diversity. I was crushed; my work in philosophy stood at the center of my self-understanding in a way that my appearance never had. But he wasn\u2019t wrong. Teaching is the academic counterpart of artistic performance. Standing in front of a classroom full of students, you are forced to appear before a group of human beings who are old enough to have a complete set of acculturated stereotypes but who have, for the most part, only just begun reflecting on them. A colleague of mine noted offhandedly that as women, we have only two pedagogical archetypes to work with\u2014mother and lover, each authoritative in her way but neither one admired for her philosophical genius. When my anger subsided, I realized for the first time that I had no vision of what success looked like in my field for me as\u00a0<em>me<\/em>.\u201d<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>With <em>The Great Gatsby<\/em> as his metaphor, Rick Perlstein dismantles the valorization of \u201csmarts\u201d among the elite liberal set: \u201c<a href=\"https:\/\/thebaffler.com\/salvos\/outsmarted-perlstein\" target=\"_blank\">In that dialogue in which Tom Buchanan dresses up his racism in scientific raiment, all of us, because we know ourselves to be sophisticated and smart, identify with Daisy Buchanan<\/a>. Fitzgerald had also figured out something shrewd about such\u2014but how shall we put it\u2014cultural sophisticates? Effete snobs who characterize themselves as intellectuals? Elite liberals? \u2026 <em>Smart<\/em> is an identity. <em>Smart<\/em> has a politics. <em>Smart<\/em> can be a road to authenticity, or <em>Smart<\/em> can be a con \u2026 <em>Smart<\/em> carries within it its own logic of domination, resistance, resentment\u2014the logic that produces both reactionary pedants and ferociously winking liberal elites \u2026 more and more with each passing year, in American culture and politics, <em>smart<\/em> has become a dangerous stand-in for judgments concerning self-evident moral worth.\u201d<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>George Saunders has something urgent to tell you about Grace Paley, \u201c<a href=\"http:\/\/www.newyorker.com\/books\/page-turner\/grace-paley-the-saint-of-seeing\" target=\"_blank\">one of the great writers of voice of the last century<\/a>. There\u2019s an experience one has reading a stylist like her that has to do with how rich in truth the phrase-or-sentence-level bursts are and how quickly they follow upon one another. An image or phrase finds you, pleases you with its wit or vividness, shoehorns open your evolving vision of the fictive world, and before that change gets fully processed, here comes another. You find yourself having trouble believing this much wit is washing over you. A world is appearing before you that is richer and stranger than you could possibly have imagined, and that world gains rooms and vistas and complications with every phrase. What you are experiencing is intimate contact with an extraordinary intelligence, which causes the pleasant sensation of one\u2019s personality receding and being replaced by the writer\u2019s consciousness.\u201d<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>Do you have access to classified information? Hey, neato, buddy! We\u2019re all super impressed with you. But as Jeremy Bernstein knows from experience, you\u2019re probably not sitting on anything too hot: \u201c<a href=\"https:\/\/www.lrb.co.uk\/blog\/2017\/03\/06\/jeremy-bernstein\/who-needs-to-know\/\" target=\"_blank\">In summer 1958, I was briefly a consultant for the Rand Corporation in Santa Monica<\/a>. I had a Q clearance, the most rigorous that the Atomic Energy Commission had. This enabled me to receive classified information on nuclear weapons on a \u2018need to know\u2019 basis. During most of my short stay I didn\u2019t need to know anything, but one day the theory division leader descended on me with stacks of numbers he wanted me to add up on a Marchant calculator \u2026 I left Rand before the report was written so I never saw it. In 1960 I was working at the Brookhaven National Laboratory on Long Island. My Q clearance was no longer active. But I received a phone call from the lab security people saying a package had arrived from the Rand Corporation and they wanted my permission to open it. I said that I could not give my permission without seeing the contents and they said that I couldn\u2019t see them because they were classified. I told them to send the package back to Rand. By now all the details of this business are available in the open literature and the whole classification seems absurd.\u201d<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In today\u2019s roundup: how women took to the factories in World War I; the elite overemphasize smartness; and more.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":38,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2512],"tags":[8960,27712,538,970,3461,27713,27698,270,27710,27711,659,7740],"class_list":["post-108555","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-on-the-shelf","tag-chris-kraus","tag-classified-information","tag-fashion","tag-george-saunders","tag-grace-paley","tag-intelligence","tag-international-womens-day","tag-paris","tag-serious-young-woman","tag-smarts","tag-the-great-gatsby","tag-world-war-i"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.4 (Yoast SEO v25.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Women at Work in the First World War<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In today\u2019s roundup: how women took to the factories in World War I; 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