{"id":106079,"date":"2016-12-22T09:47:22","date_gmt":"2016-12-22T14:47:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=106079"},"modified":"2016-12-22T10:26:18","modified_gmt":"2016-12-22T15:26:18","slug":"106079","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2016\/12\/22\/106079\/","title":{"rendered":"Champagne Is for Chumps, and Other News"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_106081\" style=\"width: 810px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/champas.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-106081\" class=\"wp-image-106081 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/champas.jpg\" width=\"800\" height=\"613\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/champas.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/champas-300x230.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/12\/champas-768x588.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (min-width: 62.5em) 67vw, 100vw\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-106081\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">\u201cIt looks like sparkling urine, but I promise it tastes good.\u201d<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Champagne has become so synonymous with luxury that you\u2019d think it was produced in an elaborate, secret ritual involving bolts of crushed velvet and diamond-tipped drill bits and the blood of rosy-cheeked virgins\u00a0from spa towns in the Swiss Alps. But it\u2019s just wine, Tim Crane reminds us: \u201c<a href=\"http:\/\/www.the-tls.co.uk\/articles\/public\/vin-extraordinaire\/\">It is worth reflecting on how extraordinary the champagne phenomenon is<\/a>. The wine\u00admakers and merchants of Champagne\u2014the\u00a0<em>Champenois<\/em>\u2014have somehow managed to persuade people who would not dream of spending \u00a315 on a bottle of wine to spend more than twice that for champagne\u2014especially at Christmas, weddings and other celebrations \u2026 More depressing than supermarket champagne (for the oenophiles, at least) is the champagne houses\u2019 attempt to secure more luxury status for their\u00a0<em>cuv\u00e9es<\/em>, greedily hiking up the price of an already expensive product, when it is not obvious that the quality justifies it. This is one way in which the champagne business balances precariously between courting the vulgarity of the super-rich, and desiring to make genuinely exquisite, age-worthy wines of the standard of those made a few miles away in Burgundy.\u201d<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>Fiona Pitt-Kethley had a booming career in the eighties, writing travel books and the especially successful <em>Literary Companion to Sex<\/em>. Now she struggles to get agents to return her calls. Her story of\u00a0the publishing industry should strike fear into the hearts of anyone who thinks the business is essentially fair-minded: \u201c<a href=\"http:\/\/www.lrb.co.uk\/blog\/2016\/12\/22\/fiona-pitt-kethley\/agent-wanted\/\">I started to apply for an agent and after being turned down by several did the cheeky thing of advertising for one<\/a>.\u00a0Giles Gordon\u00a0of Sheil Land was amused enough to take me on. Under his wing my income improved greatly \u2026 A few years later, Giles decided to move to Edinburgh \u2026 For a while I was with his assistant, Robert Kirby, who was pleasant enough but never had the same kind of enthusiasm for my work. When I made a minor criticism of his inability to sell my project on the red light districts of the world he showed a desire to shed me and we went our separate ways. At this stage I was still relatively well-known and I assumed I would be able to acquire another agent. I still bumped into Giles occasionally at literary parties but he said he thought I would be better with a London-based agent. Soon after this, he died in an accident falling downstairs. This is why I sometimes sum the whole story up as \u2018I had an agent but he died.\u2019 \u201d<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Looking at the instantly iconic photos of the Ankara assassination, Jerry Saltz sees the formal qualities of history paintings: \u201c<a href=\"http:\/\/www.vulture.com\/2016\/12\/those-harrowing-ankara-assassination-photos.html\">The scene could be a modern-day martyrdom by the most theatrical painter of them all, Caravaggio<\/a>; the prelude to David\u2019s\u00a0<em>Oath of the Horatii<\/em>; or one of Robert Longo\u2019s large black-and-white Falling Men drawings of figures in dramatic arrested motion\u2014human beings seemingly cut out from the world, thrust onto this pictorial stage \u2026 The gallery lighting balances and color-corrects everything, theatricalizes it all the more, making the action that much more striking. Look close and notice the key factor: This picture is taken from eye level. The photographer isn\u2019t running away, hiding, in another room or in a crouch. Whether cravenly or by instinct, the photographer immediately reacted, moved into the action from almost straight on and framed the picture perfectly. He or she values frontality, clarity, structure, density, form. This is far from an accidental image. This is a radically self-determined picture, instantly polemical, powerfully formal.\u201d<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>Cahokia was a medieval city right here in the United States\u2014a once prosperous society that\u2019s failed, for some reason, to live on in the imagination as other failed civilizations have. Annalee Newitz went to see what\u2019s still there: \u201c<a href=\"http:\/\/arstechnica.com\/science\/2016\/12\/theres-a-1000-year-old-lost-city-beneath-the-st-louis-suburbs\/\">At the city\u2019s apex in 1050, the\u00a0population exploded to as many as thirty thousand people<\/a>. It was the largest\u00a0pre-Columbian city in what became the United States, bigger than London or\u00a0Paris\u00a0at the time. Its colorful wooden homes and monuments rose\u00a0along the\u00a0eastern side of the Mississippi, eventually spreading\u00a0across the river\u00a0to St. Louis. One particularly magnificent structure, known today as Monk\u2019s Mound, marked the center of downtown. It\u00a0towered 30 meters over an enormous central plaza and had three dramatic ascending levels, each covered in ceremonial buildings. Standing on the highest level, a person speaking loudly\u00a0could be heard\u00a0all the way across the Grand Plaza below.\u201d<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<ul>\n<li>In New York, on the Lower East Side, there remains one bookbinder, plying his ancient trade with his specialized tools. Dwyer Murphy paid him a visit: \u201c<a href=\"http:\/\/lithub.com\/the-last-bookbinder-on-the-lower-east-side\/\">There are no windows and yet it\u2019s a cheerful place, primarily because of Henry, but also because of the instruments he uses<\/a>\u2014the oversewing machine with its web of thread, the presses that are tightened by wheel crank, the hand guillotine and the foot guillotine. Some are wickedly efficient, others possessed of a Rube Goldberg charm. Grease is needed to keep these machines in working order, and there\u2019s a sweetness in the air, from the lubricant oils, the leather polish and Elmer\u2019s glue, all of it underlined by the nutty scent of paper recently cut.\u201d<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>You\u2019d think it was produced in a secret ritual with the blood of rosy-cheeked virgins from Swiss spa towns.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":38,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2512],"tags":[8446,26398,35,18188,26399,2550,26397,1757,26400,125,100,272,8120,26396],"class_list":["post-106079","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-on-the-shelf","tag-agents","tag-ankara","tag-art","tag-bookbinding","tag-cahokia","tag-champagne","tag-fiona-pitt-kethley","tag-lower-east-side","tag-medieval-civilization","tag-new-york-city","tag-photography","tag-publishing","tag-wine","tag-wine-production"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.4 (Yoast SEO v25.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>How Champagne Became Synonymous with Luxury<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"It so connotes wealth and status that you\u2019d think it was produced in a secret ritual with the blood of rosy-cheeked virgins from Swiss spa towns.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2016\/12\/22\/106079\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Champagne Is for Chumps, and Other News by Dan Piepenbring\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"December 22, 2016 \u2013 You\u2019d think it was produced in a secret ritual with the blood of rosy-cheeked virgins from Swiss spa towns.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2016\/12\/22\/106079\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"The Paris Review\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/parisreview\/\" \/>\n<meta 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