{"id":104470,"date":"2016-11-03T11:47:48","date_gmt":"2016-11-03T15:47:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=104470"},"modified":"2016-11-03T14:10:40","modified_gmt":"2016-11-03T18:10:40","slug":"taking-train-charlottesville","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2016\/11\/03\/taking-train-charlottesville\/","title":{"rendered":"Taking the Train to Charlottesville"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"ex-gn_mountainview_1_jan81a\"<\/a>

Amtrak\u2019s Great Dome car.<\/p><\/div>\n

Every year, I take a Northeast Regional southbound to Charlottesville to visit two dear friends and their pair of gorgeous, sweetly neurotic German shepherds. I went once in the spring after moving to New York, but two years in the city had made me susceptible to Virginia pollen, teary-eyed and wheezing every time I went outdoors. So now I visit in autumn when the air is crisp and the leaves have just turned.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s a seven-hour train ride through the changing colors of the Delaware River and the Shenandoah Valley\u2014just enough time to read the paper and shake myself of my daily accumulations. Last weekend, I sprawled out across two seats, fanning out a collection of fresh magazines and books that might have looked pretty on Instagram had I bothered to pull the cell phone out of my bag. Instead, I let its periodic, muffled pings blend into the low hum of wheels turning. I spent most of my time staring out of the window anyway, watching buildings grow smaller until they were just slight, white homes punctuating long stretches of green. You get dreamy on long train rides\u2014you don\u2019t waste time as much as you drift on it.\u00a0<\/p>\n

My friend Abby picked me up at the station, throwing my suitcase in the back of her car, and we laughed when we saw that we\u2019d cut our hair the same, in messy chin-length bobs. Unlike the relationships embedded in one\u2019s day to day, developments on either end of a long-distance friendship are more apparent. Each year, we drink less and worry more about our skin. The dogs have become more subdued. Our conversations now progress in large arcs; our individual philosophies have time to wander and bloom in our time apart.<\/p>\n

I have watched Abby and her husband build a life together that looks quite different from mine. They\u2019ve accumulated a community, a down payment on a house with a yard. I can\u2019t help but envy the loveliness and stability of the home they\u2019ve made, while, back home, there\u2019s always a looming rent hike on my sunken little apartment, always a fat capsized cockroach waiting to be discovered. Yet somehow we always seem to be pondering similar questions when we meet, and our discussions feel bright and unexpected.<\/p>\n

\u201cLet\u2019s play a game,\u201d Abby said last Saturday, pulling down The Complete Poems\u00a0of Emily Dickinson<\/em>. \u201cWe\u2019ll each read a poem and try to decipher what it means.\u201d I called out a number and she turned to the entry and read it out loud.<\/p>\n

\n

Soul, wilt thou toss again?
By just such a hazard
Hundreds have lost, indeed,
But tens have won an all.<\/p>\n

Angels\u2019 breathless ballot
Lingers to record thee;
Imps in eager caucus
Raffle for my soul.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

We read the stanzas through a few times, debating each line. \u201cWon an all\u201d is such a strange phrase, and what is it exactly that hundreds have lost? Abby noted the funny voting motif\u2014\u201cAngels\u2019 breathless ballot\u201d\u2014and we chatted for awhile, taking turns with our stabs at what Dickinson might have been getting at. \u201cWho knows,\u201d I said finally as Abby passed the book and we decided on a new number. It was less important to fully understand than to feel, perhaps, like we\u2019d sunk for a moment into Dickinson\u2019s inner workings.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s a relief to remember that your version of events is not the only one. That there are infinite, parallel experiences of a thing. On the train home, I started to make a phone call but was immediately shushed by another passenger. Funny how easy it is to accidentally wind up in the quiet car, given how arbitrary its placement seems to be on any given line. If I had to choose one car to ride for the rest of my life, it\u2019d be the \u201cOcean View,\u201d an antique crowned by wide, curved windows. The Great Dome car, as it\u2019s called, is the last of its kind still in service on Amtrak. Built in 1955, it recently completed a tour on the Adirondack line through Hudson Valley to Montreal. If you search the Train Magazine<\/em>\u2019s archives, you\u2019ll find reports of \u201cAMTK 10031\u201d being pulled everywhere from the Chicago\u2019s Pere Marquette Railway to the Reno Fun Train in California. I thought of the Great Dome car interloping between different lines, observing red foliage for a few weeks up north before swinging west for falling snow and white-tipped pines.<\/p>\n

Wei Tchou is a member of\u00a0<\/em>The New Yorker\u2019s\u00a0editorial staff and\u00a0is one of the\u00a0<\/em><\/em>Daily\u2019s correspondents.<\/em><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Every year, I take a Northeast Regional southbound to Charlottesville to visit two dear friends and their pair of gorgeous, sweetly neurotic German shepherds. I went once in the spring after moving to New York, but two years in the city had made me susceptible to Virginia pollen, teary-eyed and wheezing every time I went […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":992,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[22700],"tags":[12920,25259,6631,16698,25530,13617,2056,8400,3007,327,25531,25524,384,25528,22944,13154,13153,25527,3209,25532,25526,25525,123,25533,613,6737,25534,22695,25529],"class_list":["post-104470","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-our-correspondents","tag-amtrak","tag-antique","tag-charlottesville","tag-community","tag-complete-poems","tag-dreaming","tag-emily-dickinson","tag-essay","tag-friends","tag-friendship","tag-german-shepherds","tag-great-dome-car","tag-home","tag-long-distance","tag-our-correspondents","tag-quiet-car","tag-silence","tag-the-ocean-view","tag-train","tag-train-car","tag-train-magazine","tag-train-rides","tag-travel","tag-trip","tag-vacation","tag-virginia","tag-visiting","tag-wei-tchou","tag-won-an-all"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nWei Tchou Takes a Train Ride to Charlottesville<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"It\u2019s a relief to remember that your version of events is not the only one. 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