{"id":102777,"date":"2016-09-16T16:09:32","date_gmt":"2016-09-16T20:09:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/?p=102777"},"modified":"2016-09-16T16:27:18","modified_gmt":"2016-09-16T20:27:18","slug":"inside-the-volcano","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2016\/09\/16\/inside-the-volcano\/","title":{"rendered":"Inside the Volcano"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"volcano\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\u201cAsh had fallen. Perhaps it had fallen the night before or perhaps it was still falling. I can only remember in patches.\u201d<\/p>\n

In 1976, three years before she died, Jean Rhys published \u201cHeat<\/a>,\u201d an autobiographical story about the 1902 eruption of Martinique\u2019s Mount Pel\u00e9e volcano, which destroyed Saint-Pierre, then the largest city on the island. Some thirty to forty thousand people died; Rhys, who grew up nearby on Dominica, would have been eleven at the time.<\/p>\n

Some said the disaster was divine retribution for Saint-Pierre\u2019s moral depravity; not only was the city a haven for loose women, it had a theater and even an opera. But in the immediate aftermath, an air of grave concern fell over the region. \u201cNobody talked in the street, nobody talked while we ate, or hardly at all,\u201d Rhys writes in \u201cHeat\u201d: \u201cThey all thought our volcano was going up.\u201d The night after the eruption, the narrator\u2019s mother points out the black clouds hovering over Martinique. \u201cYou will never see anything like this in your life again,\u201d she says. When the narrator\u2019s friends offer her a bottle of ash, she refuses to touch it.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Volcanoes are always in the background of life in the Caribbean. Though Rhys\u2019s narrator didn\u2019t know this, another volcano\u2014La Soufri\u00e8re, in nearby Saint Vincent\u2014had erupted only hours before Mount Pel\u00e9e, wiping out a Carib community. Decades later, in 1979, my grandmother lived through another of La Soufri\u00e8re\u2019s violent eruptions; she told me about the ash that covered Saint Lucia afterward. She was originally from Sint\u00a0Eustatius, a twelve-square-mile island that\u2019s part of the Caribbean Netherlands. Its main town, Oranjestad, lies on the slopes of the Quill, another volcano. It\u2019s been dormant for nearly two millennia. On my last visit to the island, I climbed it: 1,972 feet of dry scrubs nestling a verdant rainforest in its crater.<\/p>\n

\"View<\/a>

View over Saint-Pierre after the Mount Pel\u00e9e eruption, 1902.<\/p><\/div>\n

*<\/p>\n

That was my second volcano. My first was Saint Lucia\u2019s Sulphur Springs, sometimes advertised as \u201cthe world\u2019s only drive-in volcano,\u201d where I went with my family when I was five or six. It\u2019s outside another Soufri\u00e8re, a different one\u2014soufri\u00e8re<\/em> comes from the French word for sulphur<\/em>, and it\u2019s the name for several areas of volcanic activity in the Caribbean. There\u2019s the town of Soufri\u00e8re, in Saint Lucia, and then there are the actual volcanos: La Soufri\u00e8re on Saint Vincent, which my grandmother recalled; La Grande Soufri\u00e8re on Guadeloupe; and Soufri\u00e8re Hills on Montserrat.<\/p>\n

We left for Soufri\u00e8re at about four in the morning, so it would still be cool by the time we arrived. Those were the days before the highway was completed\u2014what now takes ninety minutes seemed then like a grand adventure. The town is located in the caldera of a dormant volcano called Qualibou. Its prominence during the French colonial period can be seen in its beautiful architecture, with high-pitched roofs, open balconies, and elaborate fretwork.<\/p>\n

The springs are in the mountains just past Soufri\u00e8re; you can pull off the main road and drive to them. There were no guardrails or safety measures. Our guide was a dreadlocked man who led us over a wooden bridge and onto the springs themselves. We roamed over the surface, testing the water in the tiny craters on the surface. Some people used to boil eggs there. I collected a series of sulphur rocks and later stored them in an empty cookie tin. They sat in my closet for many years, crusty, glittery, and smelling like rotten eggs.<\/p>\n

Years later, I remember watching a live-action TV show that followed the folk character Papa Jab (the Devil) as he kidnapped children and carried them to his lair in the sulphur springs. It was filmed on location. I was amazed that anyone was allowed so close to the boiling water. By that time, the springs had been closed to the public. A crater had opened underneath a guide as he was showing some visitors how safe it was. They named it Gabriel\u2019s Hole in his honor.<\/p>\n

*<\/p>\n

As for Saint-Pierre, I passed through it on a trip to Martinique once. The city was never rebuilt, and most of it is overrun with vegetation. Only four thousand people reside in what was once called le petit Paris<\/em>. My friend and I visited the cachot<\/em> (stone dungeon), which once had housed Auguste-Louis Cyparis, one of the 1902 eruption\u2019s few confirmed survivors. He\u2019d been arrested the day before for unruly behavior and survived only because of the cell\u2019s thick walls. He was pardoned for his crime and later joined Barnum and Bailey\u2019s Greatest Show on Earth, where he was billed as Ludger Sylbaris: \u201cThe Only Living Object That Survived in the Silent City of Death.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n

Matthew St. Ville Hunte lives in Saint Lucia. He is one of the\u00a0<\/em>Daily\u2019s correspondents.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201cAsh had fallen. Perhaps it had fallen the night before or perhaps it was still falling. I can only remember in patches.\u201d In 1976, three years before she died, Jean Rhys published \u201cHeat,\u201d an autobiographical story about the 1902 eruption of Martinique\u2019s Mount Pel\u00e9e volcano, which destroyed Saint-Pierre, then the largest city on the island. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":996,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[22700],"tags":[24593,24606,24602,24603,24596,22384,9144,24594,24605,24592,24607,18372,4444,22581,24600,24604,24595,24588,21014,2204,24597,23479,24599,24590,24591,24601,24598,24589,22047],"class_list":["post-102777","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-our-correspondents","tag-24593","tag-active","tag-auguste-louis-cyparis","tag-barnum-and-baily","tag-caribbean","tag-climbing","tag-disaster","tag-dominica","tag-dormant","tag-eruption","tag-haven","tag-heat","tag-jean-rhys","tag-lava","tag-le-patit-paris","tag-ludger-sylbaris","tag-martinique","tag-mount-pelee","tag-mountains","tag-opera","tag-oranjestad","tag-saint-lucia","tag-saint-pierre","tag-soufriere","tag-soufriere-hills","tag-springs","tag-st-eustatius","tag-sulphur-springs","tag-volcano"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nLiving with Volcanoes in the Caribbean Islands<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Volcanoes are always in the background of life in the Caribbean.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theparisreview.org\/blog\/2016\/09\/16\/inside-the-volcano\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Inside the Volcano by Matthew St. Ville Hunte\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"September 16, 2016 \u2013 \u201cAsh had fallen. 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